Is the Kirby Dual Sanitronic 50 a good vacuum?

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Jon,

You will need at least one of the following parts to make your handle fork work like new:
1005 - handle fork pin spring clip
135860 - shell bushing (left hand), large
135960 - shell bushing (right hand), small
136373 - handle fork spring bushing clip
137067 - handle fork spring
137173 - handle fork spring shaft
137273 - handle fork spring bushing
137373 - handle fork spring bushing screw
137579 - handle fork spring yoke

~Ben
 
Jon,

One more thing about the handle spring: you will need to use a special tool to get it off. It is part no. SP123. These are the steps to replace it (applies to models 516 to D80):

A. DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove the housing shell.
(2) If the spring is not broken, it is first necessary to relieve the tension from the handle spring. Remove the spring bushing clip (136356, 136367 or 136373). Engage the pin of the spring tool (SP123) with one of the slots on the outer surface of the spring bushing (137256 or 137273). Hold tension on the spring tool and pry the bushing to the side far enough to allow the spring yoke (137556 or 137579) to be disengaged from the spring bushing; turn the spring tool to relieve the tension.
(3) Remove the screw (137356 or 137373) from the spring bushing and remove the spring clip (1005) from the spring shaft.
(4) Pull the spring bushing, spring yoke, fiber washer (137456), spring shaft (137156 or 137173) and handle spring (137056 or 137067) from the housing shell (135556S, 135562S or 135567S).
(5) Remove the screw (137756) and the spring spreader (137656) from the housing shell. (These two parts may or may not be present on your machine.)
(6) If the bushings (135860 or 135960) are damaged or excessively worn, press them from the housing shell. Be sure that the housing shell is properly supported to prevent cracking or breaking it.
(7) If any of the handle lock parts require replacement, the handle lock should be disassembled at this time.

B. INSPECT THE PARTS FOR CRACKS, DISTORTION, OR EXCESSIVE WEAR. REPLACE ALL NON-SERVICEABLE PARTS.

C. REASSEMBLY
(1) Position the spring spreader (137656) in the housing shell (135556S); secure with the screw (137756). (The spring spreader and its screw may or may not be present on your machine.)
(2) If the bushings (135860 and 135960) were removed, press new bushings into place so that they are flush with the outside edge of the housing shell.
(3) Slide the spring shaft (137156 or 137173) into the spring shaft bushing (137256 or 137273) so that the screw holes are aligned one over the other.
(4) Position the spring yoke (137556 or 137579) and fiber washer (137456) on the assembled spring shaft and bushing.
(5) Position the handle spring (137056 or 137067) in the housing shell so that it is aligned with the spring shaft bore and the straight end is on the side toward the small bushing; insert the spring shaft and assembled parts through the large bushing and through the spring.
(6) Check that the screw holes of bushing and spring shaft are still in alignment; install the shouldered screw (137356 or 137373). Hook the looped end of the handle spring on the shouldered screw.
(7) Engage the pin of the spring tool (SP123) with one of the slots on the outer surface of the bushing. Rotate the bushing until the lip of the spring yoke can be engaged in the second or third slot of the bushing. This is determined by the amount of tension desired. Push the bushing all the way in and lock in place by installing the spring bushing clip (136356, 136367 or 136373) inside the housing shell.
(8) Install the spring clip (1005) on the spring shaft so that the flat side of the clip is in the slot of the spring shaft.
(9) Install the housing shell and foot switch button.

~Ben
 
Kirby

Above is correct on handle spring.As with many things don't even think of doing this WITHOUT THE CORRECT TOOL!With the right tool and parts this is fairly simple after the first ten repairs.Experience helps.Do you think you might have a present or former door to door Kirby (or other)salesman in your area that has basement/garage workshop?The most important to clean properly is good belt,good brush(installed and adjusted properly)and use right height position for the carpet being cleaned.Good Luck-Happy Vacuuming.
 
Started polishing a few minutes ago. It's definitely gonna take some love to get Kirby to shine like new, as you can see, I already destroyed one rag just polishing the cap.

kirbyds50++11-19-2013-20-03-2.jpg
 

Here's a video of it in action. Can't really see anything as I vacuumed the basement about a week before I got the Kirby so there wasn't much dirt. I need to get the light fixed, discovered one of the wires was broke off the socket so need to solder them back together and will have a light again.
 
So I got a new belt for this thing, but how the heck do I put it on? I figured out how to get the roller off and everything, but the new belt is being stubborn or I am just an idiot. Can anyone direct me to a video tutorial or pictorial writeup?
 
Jon,

This is how you remove/install a belt on a Kirby:

TO REMOVE BRUSH ROLL FROM RUG NOZZLE (assuming belt lifter is in "OFF" position before you perform the first step)
1. Remove nozzle from motor unit.
2. Turn belt lifter to "ON" position.
3. Swing Rug Guard from nozzle on hinges.
4. Spread support brackets by bending slightly away from Brush Roll. The brush may then be removed for cleaning.
5. Use scissors to cut string, thread or hair which may be wrapped around the brush roll. An old comb is also useful in removing foreign matter embedded in brush tufts.

REPLACEMENT OF BRUSH ROLL
1. Place ends of Brush Roll into support brackets - one end is wider than the other so it can be replaced only the correct way.
2. Bend the support brackets back into place.
3. Make sure belt is positioned in center of Brush Roll.
4. Swing Rug Guard back into the nozzle - it will snap into place. It will be necessary to depress the belt slightly as this is done.

A new belt will be stiff and some resistance will be felt as you pick it up with the Belt Lifter hook.

~Ben
 
Jon,

The belt must be mounted onto the nozzle while off of the machine. You may need to center the belt a little after the rug guard is locked in place. Then carefully turn the lifter (to the "off" position) so it grabs the belt, and you may feel resistance doing so... this is where you must be real careful.

~Ben
 
The polishing is coming right along, still a good couple more hours of work left before I'll be satisfied, but what little I've already done has scrubbed about 5 pounds of ugly off this thing.

kirbyds50++11-21-2013-23-28-56.jpg
 
And KirbyKid, you are correct, this is indeed a Sanitronic 7, I never knew this model existed but can see people easily getting them confused with the D50 as there is hardly any sources for the 7 online so most people that have 7's probably think they are 50s. So, was the 7 made in the late 50s I am assuming?
 
Jon,

Kirby Sanitronic tan trim vacuum history:
562 = 1962-1963
Sanitronic VII = 1963-1965
Dual Sanitronic 50 = 1965-1967

Yours is from the 1963-1964 production season, because the Kirby logo on the nameplate is the circle logo, not the oval one (even though that logo was used in the instruction book and also was featured prominently on all packaging for this model).

The 1964-1965 season models would have the oval Kirby logo on the nameplate. The Dual Sanitronic 50's bag had ovals but in the same closely-spaced pattern as the circles. The D50 also was the first Kirby with a two-speed motor (the higher speed reserved for the hose when connected to the front).

~Ben (KirbyClassicIII)
 
A ds80 is my next project, I see them go on ebay in good condition very reasonable. Hoping to pick one up soon, but I think the sanitronic 7 will still outperform the 80 simply because of the metal fan.
 
So today I tried to fire up the kirby to vac the living room and it came on briefly then shut off and wouldnt come back on again. Any idea what happened guys?
 
Perhaps,

Simple things like the cord at the power plant of the cleaner becoming lose, a failure of the speed switch, or even you blowing a fuse in your home's main circuit box. Check those criteria before we go any deeper than that.
 
I will look into those things, awfully suspicious of the cord. One design flaw of these things, you barely step on the cord while vacuuming and it pops out. Other than that, its a real good machine and I look forward to getting a 80!
 

My dog is NOT a fan of the vacuum cleaner at all! I love this old Kirby, 50 years old and it does a better job than my newer Dyson ever has!
 
Yes, of course it is better. If it has a new brush roll and new belt it should out clean any of those other machines. Not to mention, it is made of metal so it will definitely outlast them as well.
 

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