thehooverman
Well-known member
Pics Or Info?
Hoover windtunnel V2
- Thread starter thehooverman
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aeoliandave
Well-known member
Archives.
briguy
Well-known member
Here's mine
This is my WindTunnel V2.
This is my WindTunnel V2.
briguy
Well-known member
And another pic
This is my favorite thing about this model. The brushrolls. I have always had a fascination with the counter-rotating multiple brushrolls of this type.
This is my favorite thing about this model. The brushrolls. I have always had a fascination with the counter-rotating multiple brushrolls of this type.
gmerkt
New member
BriGuy, your picture of the agitators on your V2 appears to show them out of time with one another. The bristles of one agitator should never touch those on an adjacent one. Enmeshed as yours appear to be causes excessive resistance in the apparatus.
The V2/Dual V design has two versions. Call them an early and a late, there is the version used prior to 06/03 and those made on or after 06/03. Your V2 is likely an early version. Check your serial number for date of manufacture to be sure.
The agitators for the V2/Dual V come in rights and lefts. The machine has two of each. The right and left position isn't definitive as to where they go in the machine; evidently just for identification. Color coding would've been better.
On the early machine, the agitators work in diagonally opposed pairs. Viewing the floor nozzle from the operator's position behind the handle, the agitator at the left front should be marked R; the one in the right front corner should be marked L. The agitator in the left rear (row closest to operator) should be marked L; the one at the right rear should be marked R. They should be positioned in such a way as to allow for now interference of bristles.
Just for information's sake, the 06/03 and later machines have both L's in the back row (as viewed from the operator's position behind the handle of the machine) and both R's in the front row. The agitators marked R are the same part for both early and late versions. The agitators marked L are different; early and late versions each take a different L agitator. There are many other parts differences in the floor nozzle between the early and late versions.
When diagnosing an out-of-time issue with the agitators on these machines, it could be a problem beyond incorrectly installed parts. To wit, it could result from a problem in the gear train that drives the agitators. The steel shafts that turn the agitators are set into plastic gears. Sometimes the bonding between the shaft and the gear fails. In this case, the shaft will be loose on the gear resulting in incorrect timing of the agitators, or failure to rotate at all, the "off pair" just kind of free-wheeling driven by interference with the other set of agitators.
The gear train and motor come as an assembly, but clever people can take the gear parts off and repair them. I've done it several times with success. Basically, the repair is to clean everything, then epoxy the loose shaft back in the bad gear. This must be done carefully to maintain concentricity of the shaft in the gear. Also be prepared to do some wizardry on the plastic gear housing; the screw holes can shear off and you have to re-engineer the fasteners.
Here's a picture of a Dual V early design that I believe shows correct agitator positions. Note how the bristles are aligned to rotate without touching.
The V2/Dual V design has two versions. Call them an early and a late, there is the version used prior to 06/03 and those made on or after 06/03. Your V2 is likely an early version. Check your serial number for date of manufacture to be sure.
The agitators for the V2/Dual V come in rights and lefts. The machine has two of each. The right and left position isn't definitive as to where they go in the machine; evidently just for identification. Color coding would've been better.
On the early machine, the agitators work in diagonally opposed pairs. Viewing the floor nozzle from the operator's position behind the handle, the agitator at the left front should be marked R; the one in the right front corner should be marked L. The agitator in the left rear (row closest to operator) should be marked L; the one at the right rear should be marked R. They should be positioned in such a way as to allow for now interference of bristles.
Just for information's sake, the 06/03 and later machines have both L's in the back row (as viewed from the operator's position behind the handle of the machine) and both R's in the front row. The agitators marked R are the same part for both early and late versions. The agitators marked L are different; early and late versions each take a different L agitator. There are many other parts differences in the floor nozzle between the early and late versions.
When diagnosing an out-of-time issue with the agitators on these machines, it could be a problem beyond incorrectly installed parts. To wit, it could result from a problem in the gear train that drives the agitators. The steel shafts that turn the agitators are set into plastic gears. Sometimes the bonding between the shaft and the gear fails. In this case, the shaft will be loose on the gear resulting in incorrect timing of the agitators, or failure to rotate at all, the "off pair" just kind of free-wheeling driven by interference with the other set of agitators.
The gear train and motor come as an assembly, but clever people can take the gear parts off and repair them. I've done it several times with success. Basically, the repair is to clean everything, then epoxy the loose shaft back in the bad gear. This must be done carefully to maintain concentricity of the shaft in the gear. Also be prepared to do some wizardry on the plastic gear housing; the screw holes can shear off and you have to re-engineer the fasteners.
Here's a picture of a Dual V early design that I believe shows correct agitator positions. Note how the bristles are aligned to rotate without touching.
thehooverman
Well-known member
That's Nice I Want One
briguy
Well-known member
Incorrect brush-roll positions
Gary, since that photo was taken I switched the brushrolls around & corrected them. When I first got the V2 I posted the same pic & someone told me about them being in the wrong arrangement. It must have been serviced sometime before I acquired it & they re-installed them incorrectly.
Thanks for the heads up though. I also had to fix the floor plate screw hole posts on mine. As everyone knows the plastic used on these is very brittle & breaks off easily. Nothing a lil JB Weld couldn't handle & make better than new I think.
Gary, since that photo was taken I switched the brushrolls around & corrected them. When I first got the V2 I posted the same pic & someone told me about them being in the wrong arrangement. It must have been serviced sometime before I acquired it & they re-installed them incorrectly.
Thanks for the heads up though. I also had to fix the floor plate screw hole posts on mine. As everyone knows the plastic used on these is very brittle & breaks off easily. Nothing a lil JB Weld couldn't handle & make better than new I think.
thehooverman
Well-known member
briguy
Well-known member
Hey HooverMan thanks for sharing that link to the commercial! I remember thoat commercial from a few years ago. I really like the way they did the 3-D animation showing the machine's inner workings.
gmerkt
New member
Yes, the plastic in the main body of the floor nozzle embrittles over time. A new one costs $9.64 from Hesco but I repair them myself with epoxy that contains Kevlar.
I've got three Dual V's in line now for refurb. They sell slowly but rather steadily. I don't like to pre-build a bunch of slow sellers, but I have to get started on the inspections early so I have lead-time in case they might need certain new parts. Often, stuff for these is on back order. Some is already no longer available.
The ones in progress right now are one early version in navy blue, and two late ones, one in the very common green and another in plum color. Oh, also a Savvy (one agitator) in silver and it will be a very easy refurb.
The green Dual V has a down-right broken main body, crushed in on one intake passage. I may spring for a new one but it's probably not worth it. The margin shrinks right up when you start buying $10 parts. I always have a "ship complete" order pending at Hesco, so I call and add to it to miniimize shipping costs. If you buy that one $10 part and want it shipped right away, it becomes a $23 part with shipping added. I always have machines sitting around, pending parts. I get them done except for the one missing part, then work around them on other jobs. When the Hesco order comes in, there is a flurry of completion. I also use lots of recycled parts from donor machines.
I've got three Dual V's in line now for refurb. They sell slowly but rather steadily. I don't like to pre-build a bunch of slow sellers, but I have to get started on the inspections early so I have lead-time in case they might need certain new parts. Often, stuff for these is on back order. Some is already no longer available.
The ones in progress right now are one early version in navy blue, and two late ones, one in the very common green and another in plum color. Oh, also a Savvy (one agitator) in silver and it will be a very easy refurb.
The green Dual V has a down-right broken main body, crushed in on one intake passage. I may spring for a new one but it's probably not worth it. The margin shrinks right up when you start buying $10 parts. I always have a "ship complete" order pending at Hesco, so I call and add to it to miniimize shipping costs. If you buy that one $10 part and want it shipped right away, it becomes a $23 part with shipping added. I always have machines sitting around, pending parts. I get them done except for the one missing part, then work around them on other jobs. When the Hesco order comes in, there is a flurry of completion. I also use lots of recycled parts from donor machines.
thehooverman
Well-known member
i always wanted one
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