Hoover S3620 PowerMax Ultra needs repair

[bb62]

I was using my Emerald Green Hoover S3620 PowerMax Ultra (bought new) the other day, and it suddenly stopped. I heard and smelled was seemed to be an electrical short, and the vacuum simply would not re-start.

Today I took it apart and found a black wire and an orange wire which had been twisted together had rubbed up against the motor housing, and against each other. The orange wire's conductor was severed, but the insulator (orange covering) was not. Part of the black wire's conductor was exposed, but seemingly not severed.

Simple enough, I thought - I'll just use a butt splice connector to make the orange wire "whole" again, and I'll be set! Well, that was the plan, anyway.

Without putting the housing back on, I plugged in the sweeper - and it turned on. Under other circumstances that would have been a good thing, but the only way to turn off was via 1) the foot switch, or 2) unplugging it.

You see, in the handle of the hose it has an on/off switch for the sweeper, and on/off switch for the beater brush, and a control for the level of suction. Although the on/off switch for the beater brush works, nothing else does.

Back to the inside of the sweeper: the orange wire was wire-nutted together with a black wire, a white wire and a red wire. The black wire which rubbed against the orange wire was wire-nutted together with another black wire.

I dearly hope that you fellows can help me, because I LOVE this sweeper. Foot controls for on/off and suction level are a pain!

Thanks for any and all help, and I'll be glad to answer any questions anyone might have.

 

[vacerator]

Do not

power up the motor without a fusable link protection.
That may be what have blown at first, to protect the motor.
If you put juice to it and there was still a short after, you may have fried the motor.
Test for continuity with an ohm meter on the hose contacts with the power switch on. Also now on the motor wires.
You may only need a new fuse link, or a hose repair.

 

[bb62]

Thanks for your reply, but note that I said that the problem was that the vacuum WOULD TURN ON, but wouldn't turn off.

"...the only way to turn off was via 1) the foot switch, or 2) unplugging it"

I'd be pleased if you have further suggestions, and thanks again.

 

[vacerator]

Ok Jeff,

it was early. At least it does run, so the trouble may either be the hose switch, or in the speed control on the canister if it has a relay. Either way, it has to be repairable.
I is not nearly as complicated as a newer machine with pressure transducer speed controls.

 

[bb62]

Vacerator, thank you for your response, but *how* and *where* is it repairable?

Hoover no longer supports it.

 

[vacerator]

Jeff,

No, Hoover doesn't. Hoover is actually no more. It is TTI and all are made in China now. Nothing they sell today will lasts as long.
Find a vacuum repair shop that will fix it. One near me has tons of used parts, and they work on all makes and models of vintage cleaners and sewing machines.
I know for a fact that a Hoover hose is repairable. It may be only the switch on the handle.
If worse comes to worse and they can not find a speed controller, or a relay, they can at least make it work on high speed only.
I have done it with a Hungarian made Electrojunx.

 

[vacerator]

Jeff,

Your second option is to shut it off using the main power switch.

 

[delaneymeegan]

 


 


If your hoover hose looks similar to this, good news, you should be able to, with a phillips screw driver, open it up and view the wiring.


 


The wiring in the hose end is delicate and it may be as simple as a short, or there may be a wire loose, or one that has crossed with another.  It could also be a fault with the switch.  Sometimes faulty switches won't turn on, other times they won't turn OFF.


 


First, I would try this experiment: once you've turned the vacuum on, where the hose AND hose PLUG connect to the canister, UNPLUG that plug.  The vacuum should turn off when the plug is pulled up.  If that is the case, it should confirm the problem is with the switches or wiring in the hose.

 

[delaneymeegan]

 


Both of these switches are the same.  


 


A quick test, if the wires are NOT soldered on and since you've said the PN switch works fine, would be to reverse the switches.  In other words carefully pull the wires of each and put them onto the other switch.


 


If the switches are the problem, then the vacuum should now function normally, but the PN may turn on, but not OFF.


 


I hope that helps.  If it does, than all you need to do is get a new switch, which, if I'm not mistaken is a standard item one could find at an electronics store.

 

[bb62]

DelanyMeegan: "...First, I would try this experiment: once you've turned the vacuum on, where the hose AND hose PLUG connect to the canister, UNPLUG that plug. The vacuum should turn off when the plug is pulled up. ..."

Thanks for the suggestion, DELANEYMEEGAN. But, when I disconnect the power cord/plug at the sweeper body, the motor stays ON! :-(

The only way to turn the sweeper off (except for pulling the cord out of the wall), is via the foot switch.

I brought the machine to the local sweeper shop (Kirkwood's). The guy suspected the problem was in the handle, but could offer no other help/advice, and had no parts. :-(

My handle is different than the one you've pictured, in that it has 3 functions: variable vacuum level via a sliding electrical switch, and two switches, one which controls beater brush of/on, and the other that is sweeper off/on.

 

[bb62]

I just tried swapping the wiring to the brush off/on and sweeper off/on switches (the plastic covered connection) - no effect.

Drat!

 

[suckolux]

This is the very reason I got the bottom line Kenmmore and Miele. Figured more stuff on the hose made it more fragile or more pricey to change the entire hose. Good luck, I have NO idea what else to suggest.Atleast it is running and not off for good! Could get a remote switching outlet and magiver the controler for that to the hose! Okie for sure! Yes my mom would kill me for that line.

 

[suckolux]

I would guess that the issue lies inside the canister that these controls go to? Fred? you listening? John??

 

[bb62]

Suckolux: "Could get a remote switching outlet and magiver the controler for that to the hose!"

Believe me, that's on my list. We have all sorts of bags for it, and I don't intend to balance on one foot to turn it off and on.

It blows that the vacuum control would be lost, but I'll be darned to leave it like it is.

Suckolux: "I would guess that the issue lies inside the canister that these controls go to?"

I'm not sure, but IF it's supposed to turn off when I disconnect the power plug to the hose, you may be right.

Still hoping...

Thanks for your reply.

 

[suckolux]

I have one of those heavy duty controlled outlets, got off season at Lowes for under $5, weatherproof, meant for big xmas lights?I use it to control the bedroom ac unit that is hard to reach! Plenty amps to spare. You just never know where a repurpose will be handy! Again, good luck.

 

[suckolux]

I guess sometimes with a situation you have to get creative? Lighting is another place I maGiver it.

 

[delaneymeegan]

 


 


Doing the test tells you then that the problem is not with the hose, so you can put that back together the way it was.


 


If you've already opened up the canister once, you can do it again.   Can you post a picture of the electrical components, I can try and guide you further. 

 

[delaneymeegan]

 


 


Here's  a picture of the parts and wiring diagram as shown by the dotted lines between the electrical components.  Notice the cord the plugs into the wall outlet, the receptacle at the front of the machine with 3 wire "T" plug that goes into it, the motor, etc.


 


Your wiring should be layed out the same as this.


 


Also, you mentioned that there was a burning smell at some point.  Try inspecting the components for visual signs of melting.  Also, if there is a latent odor that may help "sniff out" any problems.


 


 

 

[kirbylux77]

BB62, my suggestion to you would be to leave the vacuum as is, or scrap it. I am willing to bet when that orange wire went out, it did so as a safety function because the circuit board or relay inside the canister is starting to malfunction. If that IS the case, you won't be able to modify another circuit board or relay to make it work, this is one aspect of a canister vacuum that is proprietary to each manufacturer in most cases.

I would strongly suggest you budget for a new vacuum, this one is probably on it's last legs. A Kenmore Progressive at around $400 would probably be a good choice for you IF you also buy the extended warranty, having said that there are other brands with better quality depending on how much you are willing to spend.

Rob