thevacuumman
Well-known member
what size of bearing would i need because the bearing in my 800Special 825 cant be opened
Hoover Model 800 Bearing Question
- Thread starter thevacuumman
- Start date
Help Support VacuumLand:
vintagehoover
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2006
- Messages
- 2,883
Are you talking about the upper or lower bearings, or both? Both are designed to be accessible for service, and there is a procedure for doing this.
thevacuumman
Well-known member
the top bearing and at one point in its life it was replaced with a bearing with a metal seal
vintagehoover
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2006
- Messages
- 2,883
Ah, I see...I'm not sure, then. I've never tried replacing such a bearing, only servicing the originals! Sorry!
According to a service manual I have, it requires a 200kt or 8500 bearing on the fan end. Since I have a hard time search for these, I'd guess bearing models have changed since the 1970s when the book was printed. The book does not specify a commutator end bearing for the 800.
If you could take out the bearing and measure it, you could probably find a good replacement for it. I'd assume it would be a fairly common size.
If you could take out the bearing and measure it, you could probably find a good replacement for it. I'd assume it would be a fairly common size.
hooverbaby
Well-known member
I was lucky a few years ago in being able to obtain some original-style bearings from a bearing specialist in Manchester, suitable for the 750, 825 etc. They weren't especially cheap and I bought 10 of them in order to get a bit of discount.
Unlike on most ball-race bearings, on the early ones, the inner race separates easily and the balls are held in a little brass-coloured cage.
The upper and lower bearings should be of the same type. I can't remember which bearing it is; I usually take the remains of the old bearing and the armature to the shop but you could use a micrometer to get an idea of the shaft diameter, just be sure that the shaft itself isn't worn - not so likely on these.
I've found that the bearings are usually OK and can be regreased. However I had a 750 with worn bearings a while ago and I fitted new ones top and bottom.
When I'm digging through my spares I'll see if I can send some pictures.
Stephen
Unlike on most ball-race bearings, on the early ones, the inner race separates easily and the balls are held in a little brass-coloured cage.
The upper and lower bearings should be of the same type. I can't remember which bearing it is; I usually take the remains of the old bearing and the armature to the shop but you could use a micrometer to get an idea of the shaft diameter, just be sure that the shaft itself isn't worn - not so likely on these.
I've found that the bearings are usually OK and can be regreased. However I had a 750 with worn bearings a while ago and I fitted new ones top and bottom.
When I'm digging through my spares I'll see if I can send some pictures.
Stephen
hooverbaby
Well-known member
The place I got my bearings from originally was Bearing Mart. However, it was some years ago, so I don't know if they still have any that are similar.
Here is the link:-
http://www.bearingmart.co.uk/
Here is the link:-
http://www.bearingmart.co.uk/
hooverbaby
Well-known member
Another place I've dealt with, who are excellent and good value are Arrow Engineering in Salford.
A large mower dealership recommended them and I found that the price and quality were very reasonable.
http://www.arrowengineering.com/
A large mower dealership recommended them and I found that the price and quality were very reasonable.
http://www.arrowengineering.com/
electroluxxxx
New member
if the bearings usually have a metal seal, I usually puncture the seal carefully and pull up on it taking the seal off, I then put grease on the tip of a flat head screwdriver and apply it to the bearing, spinning the belt pulley so it takes the grease off the screwdriver creating a nice coat of grease. then I reshape the seal and apply it back on to the bearing covering the puncture hole with a little bit of cotton (depending on the bearing) or just leave the small hole, this usually works great for me with out any issues and leaves the machine running as smooth as can be.
hope that helps
Mike
hope that helps
Mike
electroluxxxx
New member
better yet can you post a pic of the bearing? I might be able to assist more.
hooverbaby
Well-known member
Yes Mike, I've done that a few times with bearings that have the metal seals. The ones that Thevacuumman has don't sound original but appear to be of this type.
The other sort that is common these days are those with the little rubber seals. They can sometimes be specified instead of the ones with metal seals, may cost a little more but it's easier to remove and replace the seal without damaging it..
When removing the metal seals I usually use a tool with a sharp point, dig in, then prise up to remove. It would then need flattening out carefully if re-used; sometimes I must admit I don't put them back. In theory, at least, a load of dirt can get in and wreck the bearing..but in practice drying out of grease seems to be the main cause of failure. Of course, any really abrasive dust needs to be kept out of the bearings.
This procedure can often be used with success to re-lubricate but a rough bearing or one which has collapsed will need changing. I've come across some very cheap and nasty bearings too, which need avoiding...but most are fine when they're new..
If I recollect, the 800 usually has the type of ball bearing with the removable inner race and is the same type top and bottom. There's a little clip, which you remove and a spring and screw underneath to access the top bearing. 700s are different, since the bearing housing is rivetted in position..but you never know if maybe someone's put a 700 or 725 motor on it..
If I get chance sometime I'll have a look for the original-style bearings and send a picture.
Stephen
The other sort that is common these days are those with the little rubber seals. They can sometimes be specified instead of the ones with metal seals, may cost a little more but it's easier to remove and replace the seal without damaging it..
When removing the metal seals I usually use a tool with a sharp point, dig in, then prise up to remove. It would then need flattening out carefully if re-used; sometimes I must admit I don't put them back. In theory, at least, a load of dirt can get in and wreck the bearing..but in practice drying out of grease seems to be the main cause of failure. Of course, any really abrasive dust needs to be kept out of the bearings.
This procedure can often be used with success to re-lubricate but a rough bearing or one which has collapsed will need changing. I've come across some very cheap and nasty bearings too, which need avoiding...but most are fine when they're new..
If I recollect, the 800 usually has the type of ball bearing with the removable inner race and is the same type top and bottom. There's a little clip, which you remove and a spring and screw underneath to access the top bearing. 700s are different, since the bearing housing is rivetted in position..but you never know if maybe someone's put a 700 or 725 motor on it..
If I get chance sometime I'll have a look for the original-style bearings and send a picture.
Stephen
thevacuumman
Well-known member
This Might Help
hooverbaby
Well-known member
Tyler, thanks for the picture!
That looks quite like the original type of bearings used on the 800 - is it and can the inner and outer races be separated by hand?
Stephen
That looks quite like the original type of bearings used on the 800 - is it and can the inner and outer races be separated by hand?
Stephen
thevacuumman
Well-known member
yes they can
Similar threads
