Ill be glad to take a look in the parts inventory in the shop. Go ahead and send me an email and I'll see what I come up with
Andy
[email protected]
Andy
[email protected]
Hoover Dialamatic issue
- Thread starter steve
- Start date
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Today I flipped it over and propped it up so I could see the
drive lever more clearly. I took a screwdriver and pushed on
the bar that goes first to a wishbone shaped coupler and then
into the transmission while running the motor.
I was able to get the power wheels to engage in reverse but not
in forward by pushing the lever the goes directly into the trans. Tried both directions but
it will not go easily to the right even if I push it hard with screwdriver.
so I am thinking something is broken impeding it.
Studying how to take it apart. Looks like Hoover was crazy about small snap rings
for the front wheels / axle, and also to remove drive wheels. There are 4 or 5 phillips head
screws that if removed would probably allow me to separate either side of the trans box.
Unfortunately on each side there are a couple of screws that are about impossible to access.
Not sure how best to proceed at this point. Have you separated the drive box on yours?
Can't find any info the internet.
All the best,
drive lever more clearly. I took a screwdriver and pushed on
the bar that goes first to a wishbone shaped coupler and then
into the transmission while running the motor.
I was able to get the power wheels to engage in reverse but not
in forward by pushing the lever the goes directly into the trans. Tried both directions but
it will not go easily to the right even if I push it hard with screwdriver.
so I am thinking something is broken impeding it.
Studying how to take it apart. Looks like Hoover was crazy about small snap rings
for the front wheels / axle, and also to remove drive wheels. There are 4 or 5 phillips head
screws that if removed would probably allow me to separate either side of the trans box.
Unfortunately on each side there are a couple of screws that are about impossible to access.
Not sure how best to proceed at this point. Have you separated the drive box on yours?
Can't find any info the internet.
All the best,
Welcome to Vacuumland, Steve.
Here is another site thread (conversation) that you may find helpful:
http://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?28870
Fyi ... I used the Vacuumland search engine and entered "dial a matic repair". There are other threads to check out, too; I just selected one.
I'm guessing that your 1978 Dial-A-Matic is the Model U6039 in sea blue and oyster white with the flourish on the front cover?
Best to you in your repair efforts.
Here is another site thread (conversation) that you may find helpful:
http://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?28870
Fyi ... I used the Vacuumland search engine and entered "dial a matic repair". There are other threads to check out, too; I just selected one.
I'm guessing that your 1978 Dial-A-Matic is the Model U6039 in sea blue and oyster white with the flourish on the front cover?
Best to you in your repair efforts.
3rdgenvacguy
Well-known member
transmission
There are nylon gears in the transmission, however hardly ever fail. The shaft that runs through the unit where the pulley is has the same bearings used in each side as the agitator brush. If the black pulley spins fine with no play, they are probably O.K. There are two spools with clutch material on each side of the U shape yoke. The clutch material can wear down after many years of constant use. Your actuator bar does have some wear on it where it goes through that yoke, but does not look real bad. It could be a combination of items worn, Actuator bar, clutch disc, etc. The actuator bar must pivot in an arc inside of the rear motor cover. If it moves to the left and right and does not arc left and right inside the rear cover seems it will not have enough travel to engage the clutches. I've included photos of a worn actuator, and how it should travel left and right in the rear motor cover. When the handle is lowered to operating position and the buttom is depressed in the neutral position on the handle the actuator bar should be in the dead middle of the yoke. Another thing, the cable housing must be intact, not broken and secured at the bottom. This cable is behind the front blue cover. Most are held on by 8 screws inside the bag compartment. If the housing is broken or not secured properly, the handle motion is just flexing the cable housing and not pushing the cable through the housing.
There are nylon gears in the transmission, however hardly ever fail. The shaft that runs through the unit where the pulley is has the same bearings used in each side as the agitator brush. If the black pulley spins fine with no play, they are probably O.K. There are two spools with clutch material on each side of the U shape yoke. The clutch material can wear down after many years of constant use. Your actuator bar does have some wear on it where it goes through that yoke, but does not look real bad. It could be a combination of items worn, Actuator bar, clutch disc, etc. The actuator bar must pivot in an arc inside of the rear motor cover. If it moves to the left and right and does not arc left and right inside the rear cover seems it will not have enough travel to engage the clutches. I've included photos of a worn actuator, and how it should travel left and right in the rear motor cover. When the handle is lowered to operating position and the buttom is depressed in the neutral position on the handle the actuator bar should be in the dead middle of the yoke. Another thing, the cable housing must be intact, not broken and secured at the bottom. This cable is behind the front blue cover. Most are held on by 8 screws inside the bag compartment. If the housing is broken or not secured properly, the handle motion is just flexing the cable housing and not pushing the cable through the housing.
