Hoover Decade 80 Hot Belt

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firebirdman55

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2013
Messages
203
Location
Owensboro Kentucky
I bought a freshly rebuilt Decade 80 from a local vac store back in March. Great vacuum. But the belt gets so hot. I snapped one the other day and i can smell rubber burning on the new one already. Am I installing the belt wrong? Thjs js my first Hoover. Always owned Kirbys and Eurekas. I paid $150 for it, so I want to know what's wrong. It has a year warranty on it. I love how powerful it is and the Type A bags are amazing. What could be the issue?
 
$150 Better have bought Quality!

That's likely more than the cleaner cost new-But it is a true HOOVER!


 


If it was truely rebuilt-Then you must be installing the belt wrong, or even inside-out for all I know. using GENUINE HOOVER parts will always ensure peak performance-The word "HOOVER" should be facing out on a genuine belt. There should be a metal plate on the inside of the belt and air-flow channel. Install the belt so that the lower part of the belt is rested slightly above this.


 


Hope this helps, and if it doesn't, Make use of that warrenty!
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Does it currently have a Genuine Hoover brushroll or a CWP replacement...at 20.00 my guess would be a CWP replacement.
 
Genuine Hoover brushroll wholesales for $24 and is special order through all 3 of my suppliers. The generic replacement wholesales for just under $10, so I'd try to negotiate for a bit off the $20 if you're okay with the CWP replacement.
 
So I went by the shop today abd he gave me a new roller and a pack of new belts 44783. It is still getting extremely hot. When I rub my hand over the new belt, small pieces of rubber collect on my hand and its almost too hot to touch. I checked.the diagram and I am installing them correctly...
 
does the new brushroll spin freely without the belt? if so, how's the belt tension when installed? is it extremely tight or is there a bit of play? the belt could be a bit too short and dragging on the pulley, or a bit too long and slipping...either will create quite a bit of friction heat. I'd have to see it in person though.
 
It is pretty tight. But I've always thought the convertible blets are tight. I'm use to the RD belts for the Eurekas. Would pics help? Id be more than happy to post some this evening.
 
Brushroll

What end caps are on that brushroll, are they metal or plastic? Often times ive seen these plastic caps warp and cause drag on the bearings. Or, are the bearings simply not well lubricated? With the belt off a convertible brushroll should spin very freely.
 
cwp brushrolls are absolute crap on convertibles. get an actual metal hoover brushroll with beat bar. brush strips are still easy to find for them and the bearings are servicable. cwp brushrolls for convertibles have a bad reputation of overheating motor bearings, esp on the old metal based machines.
 
Okay this is what my vacuum man told me, the new oem hoover belts are made a bit smaller then years ago with a stronger rubber compound thus it being hard to stretch over the shaft if you can get it over it & once on the roll rush would barely spin & the motor was struggling to turn. He has had many complaints from customers with old machines burning up motors so he started using eureka belts which solved the problem. You might want to try this to see if this fixes it, if not try rebuilding the old brush roll, they will last better then the new plastic ones. Hope this helps. Cheers!! Mark D.
 
I also disagree that the CWP brushrolls are crap. I think they work very well on particular machines; in the end, it's certainly nice to see something modern available for a machine that hasn't been in domestic production in nearly 23 years.


 


I would not use a CWP brushroll in ANY Convertible earlier than the High-Performance models from the mid 70s. The earlier Convertibles don't have the amperage/wattage and motor speed to get the CWP brushrolls moving fast enough to not get bogged down.  For this same reason, I am also careful to not use any genuine brushrolls or replacement brush strips comprised of white or red bristles - as they are stiffer than the black bristles.  The new, stiffer bristles were introduced when the high-performance machines came out. 


 


Any of the High Performance metal-base machines, or plastic base machines from the mid-70s onward would be an ideal candidate for a CWP brushroll, in my opinion. But again, I would never recommend or even think about putting a CWP brushroll in any Convertible from the 50s, 60s, or early 70s - unless you install a later motor in an earlier machine*. 


 


*I did this recently, having gotten the "formula" from Jeff Parker many years ago, I took parts from both a mid-60s Convertible (model 584), and a Decade 80, and created a souped-up Convertible.  It made sense to combine some of the motor parts, and took a bit of rewiring to get it right.  It works amazingly well, and the CWP brushroll holds it's own.  I picked up the machine at an estate sale and it sat in the garage for a while.  When I found a Decade 80 to part-out, I realized that the 584 was a diamond in the rough, under a layer of filth, so I got to work...   Here's a picture of my monster. 
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