Eureka Canister (513B ) Motor Bearing Source

[johnmeyer]

The motor started making a racket. I disassembled and found the main bearing's race retainer had broken and pieces of it were mixed in with the ball bearings, inside the raceway. I picked the pieces out, lubricated, and reassembled. The motor runs better, but is still very noisy.

This fix won't last. I need a new bearing.

I have been unable to find the specs for this bearing. Can anyone suggest a generic replacement? This doesn't look like an unusual part, but I cannot find anything on the Internet to suggest what I should get.

Thanks!

 

[wyaple]

John,

In many cases, there are markings on the bearing itself. You may have to use a magnifying glass to properly see them. If you can post any markings you find on the bearing, maybe I can cross reference a suitable part for you.

Another method is to take very, very careful measurements (ID, OD, Depth, etc.) and see what can fit.

Bill

 

[kirbyvertibles]

more than likely it will be a 608 bearing like maybe a 608z

 

[johnmeyer]

Sorry for the delay in getting back; I thought this forum had an email notification. Let me quickly pull the vacuum apart and take a closer look at the bearing. I have a micrometer to measure the shaft diameter and outside bearing diameter. I'll see if I can find markings. I'll also post a picture.

 

[electrolux-dude]

Most lamb motors take a 608-2RS. 38 FF bearings are also available. Gopher bearing out of Tucson AZ has the bearings at reasonable prices. Depending on the motor there should be 2 bearings, one on the fan end and one on the commutator end of the armature. Smaller motors may have a sleeve bushing on the commutator end. If replacing the bearings don't fix the noise you may have to replace the motor.

 

[johnmeyer]

OK, I took it apart, took a photo of the bearing, and measured the shaft diameter and the outside diameter of the bearing. The shaft diameter measured 0.312" and the outside diameter of the bearing measured 0.866". These were both measured with a micrometer, so they should be pretty accurate, although as you know there are tolerances, etc.

These don't convert very well to fractions, but when converted to metric they are extremely close to 8x22 mm. I see that the 608Z mentioned by kirbyvertibles is exactly that dimension. I can easily find the 608ZZ bearing (for skateboards) but am not sure is that is the same thing, or close enough.

Hopefully this will help zero in on the part I need to buy.

Thanks for all the help I've received so far.

 

[johnmeyer]

I did a little research and the 608-2RS does look like the item I need. I can get it in various tolerances (ABEC rating) and can also get it in stainless. Bearings Direct, whom I've dealt with before, has a sealed ABEC5 version:

https://bearingsdirect.com/600-seri...955614317.html?search_query=608-2RS&results=6

I've also found a similar part at McMaster, where I am placing an order today, so incremental shipping charges will be nothing. They have it in stainless (expensive) but the regular part (which is only ABEC3, which is probably good enough) can be found here:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#6661k82/=16yd1gb

I'll wait until I hear back from those of you that have been nice enough to comment, but lacking any further input, I think either of these will do the trick, although the Bearing Direct item might be slightly better tolerance.

 

[johnmeyer]

The 608-2RS did the trick (I got the one from McMaster).

It was REALLY difficult to get the old bearing off (no bearing puller) so I very carefully (30 minutes of work) sawed if off with a Dremel cutoff disc. I also managed to break the wire to the brush, but fortunately there was enough left that I could repair that.

It now runs perfectly and sounds like its old self. Thanks to everyone for the help.