Electrolux motor bearings

[k15]

I acquired a free Electrolux Ambassador 3 from the 90s. It's in pretty good shape, other than the fan end motor bearing blew apart somehow. The inner race stayed on the armature shaft, the outer race is in the plastic housing (with a riveted plate holding it in), and the balls all fell out. I already drilled out the rivets and have access to the outer race, any tricks to getting that out? I don't want to break the plastic. And is the bearing a standard (shielded) 608? Like this?

link

The dimensions seem right.

 

[blackheart]

Oh man! That's a rough position to have to remove it from. Hopefully someone else will have a better suggestion but I think it'd actually cut the ring with a dremel. You'll have to do it little by little to make sure the heat generated doesn't warp or melt the plastic housing surrounding it. Best of luck with man!

 

[cheesewonton]

Hot tip. There is a much more powerful replacement motor that from Electromotor Inc that is a drop in replacement for the original. It is their 6500-298. It has the same outer mold line as the motor you have in your Ambassador including the tapered fan. It is a drop in replacement for the original. DO NOT buy the less expensive 6500-293. A lot of shops steer you to that motor but it is weaker than the motor that came in the Ambassador. 6500-298 is rated at 438 peak air watts and from experience it really wakes these old Electroluxes up. The motor you have now has 320-340 air watts depending on the year. I put a 6500-298 in an Epic 8000 and literally doubled the airflow. Lighthouse Motors in Arizona has the best prices on this motor and they are nice people too.

 

[k15]

Thanks for the input. Just to clarify I'm a collector, so this is now my 6th Electrolux (LE, AP280 (x2), Ambassador 3 (x3). So this is my third ambassador 3. I have particular nostalgia for Lux from the 80s and 90s, so when I come across a free or cheap one I tend to pick it up and try to fix it. That said I don't really want to spend for a new motor. My daily driver is a central vac anyway. I added some pics of where I'm stuck.

 

[Hatsuwr]

Slide hammer with an attachment thin enough to slip under that lip near the bottom of the bearing if you want non-destructive. Or your could drill 3 small holes on the end of the housing and hammer the race out from that end. Actually you might be able to skip the holes and hammer from that end while using a punch angled into the race.

 

[cheesewonton]

Slide hammer with an attachment thin enough to slip under that lip near the bottom of the bearing if you want non-destructive. Or your could drill 3 small holes on the end of the housing and hammer the race out from that end. Actually you might be able to skip the holes and hammer from that end while using a punch angled into the race.

A slide hammer will break the plastic. I think an internally expanding bearing race puller like motorcycle mechanics use to pull wheel bearings is a better choice. A slow gradual pull is safer on plastic than a slide hammer. Also, heat the plastic in hot water so it expands a bit and looses the grip on the stuck race.

 

[Hatsuwr]

A slide hammer will break the plastic. I think an internally expanding bearing race puller like motorcycle mechanics use to pull wheel bearings is a better choice. A slow gradual pull is safer on plastic than a slide hammer. Also, heat the plastic in hot water so it expands a bit and looses the grip on the stuck race.

Don't try to get it out in one hit lol, just a bit at a time, working your way around the circumference.

I do agree that something that can pull it out straight would be better if OP is willing to buy or make the tools for that, although if it is at all stuck I would still recommend some sort of gentle impacting mechanism (even just a hammer tapping on the puller) since that will actually put less total strain on the plastic parts that would be prone to breaking. If you are going to use a puller, have a socket or something in between it and the plastic to distribute the load.