Electrolux 2100 troubleshooting

[greenjp]

Good afternoon folks, fascinating site you have here. I have a product identification and troubleshooting question, the latter doesn't quite seem to be the focus here but perhaps someone can help me out.

I have an Electrolux 2100, which I recieved new as a gift circa 2000. I think Electrolux made a run of these which were distributed by QVC or something? Anyway it's been great over the years but I'm now having a problem with the power nozzle - the motor doesn't run. The cord which runs from the nozzle to the wand was torn by my crazy sister in law; I soldered it back together but the motor still won't run. I've tried cycling the on/off switch and breaker. I need to sit down with it and a multimeter and figure out if there are any continuity problems or maybe if she somehow broke something else in the process - are there wiring diagrams or diagnostic instructions for troubleshooting these things? Any general tips?

Second, the power nozzle is labelled as an "N115M", not the usual PN5, PN6, etc. Is it just a PN6 by another name? Thanks,

jeff

 

[whirlsonicmore]

Often times it's the breaker causing the lack of continuity.

 

[floor-a-matic]

Or the wires inside the cord from PN to wand sheath may have broken or seperated from plug

 

[Davinator1977]

there is also a fuse lead that often blows inside the machine, I would try another powerhead to see if there is power going to it

 

[greenjp]

update

So I did a quick solder job on the torn wires, then verified continuity from the vacuum end of the hose down to the motor, through the on/off switch and fuse, back up the wires and through the hose. Everything seemed intact but still the motor wouldn't run when the hose was attached to the canister.

So for giggles I applied 120v straight from the outlet to the motor and sure enough it ran no problem. So at this point everything from the hose through the nozzle seemed to be fine. I ended up replacing both the sheath cord and power nozzle cord (the new one of which had shorter leads than the old one, requiring another splicing job but I digress), which as expected didn't solve the problem but at least it's presentable now.

So I checked the voltage at the terminals in the canister where the hose attaches. Nothing. So I took the canister apart and traced the wires, no voltage on those wires back where they originate back at the motor & cord winder. At this point I was stumped so I took it to a local shop, where they diagnosed it over the weekend with non-specific shorts/wiring issues and are repairing it for $200. This strikes me as possibly a bit steep, but when working this machine is certainly better than anything I could get new for the same price.

jeff

 

[greenjp]

update

So I did a quick solder job on the torn wires, then verified continuity from the vacuum end of the hose down to the motor, through the on/off switch and fuse, back up the wires and through the hose. Everything seemed intact but still the motor wouldn't run when the hose was attached to the canister.

So for giggles I applied 120v straight from the outlet to the motor and sure enough it ran no problem. So at this point everything from the hose through the nozzle seemed to be fine. I ended up replacing both the sheath cord and power nozzle cord (the new one of which had shorter leads than the old one, requiring another splicing job but I digress), which as expected didn't solve the problem but at least it's presentable now.

So I checked the voltage at the terminals in the canister where the hose attaches. Nothing. So I took the canister apart and traced the wires, no voltage on those wires back where they originate back at the motor & cord winder. At this point I was stumped so I took it to a local shop, where they diagnosed it over the weekend with non-specific shorts/wiring issues and are repairing it for $200. This strikes me as possibly a bit steep, but when working this machine is certainly better than anything I could get new for the same price.

jeff