Electrolux 2100 Problem (help needed!)

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Those valves always go bad.

Great vacuum but the whole control valve set up in there is useless. Worked great in the metal tanks. Rather than replace it or I try to repair it I just remove the tube going from the control valve to the switch block. Then it can't shut off. The motor has a thermal switch so it's not needed to protect the motor in the event of a clog. And we are all smart enough to know when the bag needs changing.

It is best to remove the bottom from the rest of the vacuum and not the top cover. Once the bottom is off just move the bag chamber out and the valve switch and all the little tubes are right there.
 
The

valves do not always go bad. As a youngster I can understand what you think. I have been in the business 58 years and never say always. Some do go bad but not that many. As a man in the business you are just beginning . Over the years you will find new stuff to say needs changing but the manufacturer will be the determining factor as well as the customer. If I had a problem on my automatic I would want it fixed. If you don't want to fix yours fine.
 
I'm surprised no one has suggested the obvious first remedy. The clear air tube that goes from the automatic control dial to the intake tube in the front cover, should be removed and a thin wire (like a bread twisty tie with the plastic covering removed) should be inserted to clean out the very tiny hole. It always clogs, and the machine shuts off as soon as any kind of restriction is placed over the front intake opening.
 
How much do they cost? Depending on your Aerus dealer, $800+ for a brand new 2014. But the base model, the Lux Classic, does not have an adjustable control valve and probably doesn't suffer from this problem.


 


Furthermore, I've not come across very many of these threads mentioning control valve problems. In my personal collection are 8 models dating from 1968 to 2014. All of them have the control valve, and none of them have had any problems. Electrolux has been using control valves that are essentially the same since the beginning of time. They grew their reputation on the innovation and reliability of their products. If the original control valve design was flawed or unreliable, there would be no Aerus today, period. I wouldn't be afraid of them because of the valve.
 
Hmmm, my Epic 8000 apparently doesn't have this feature. There are three motor speeds selected electronically by a switch on the handle. That is it for suction control. It's plenty.
 
I know this is an old post, but I am having this issue with my Epic 6500. I recently purchased a new control valve online, but the vacuum would cut off as soon as the hose was connected. The original valve malfunctioned at some point and I just disconnected the bag full indicator and this fixed the problem. The new valve did not correct the issue when it was installed. I was thinking that as dysonman mentioned above that a thin wire should be used to clear out a small hole. Where is this located? Can anyone provide a picture so I know what I am looking for?
 
I think what is meant is to take a pipe cleaner or twisty and make sure there is no obstuction in any of the tubes. I have this problem with mine and was able to fix it. Let me know if you need anything else. Also, basic question. When you put the new dial in, you made sure the dail was turned on to the middle of the dail correct? If you have the dail set on the lowest setting it would most likely cause the same problem. Hope that makes sense.
 
Thanks Lux14. Yes, I tried all settings on the dial, but I will take it apart and try it again and make sure the clear vacuum tunes going to the control valve are cleaned out.
 
I recently had the same issue with my Epic 6000 SR Canister...I just disconnected the tubing to the valve and it works fine now...I took the canister apart face down, was able to disconnect the tube quite easily and put the canister back together...took maybe 10 minutes. Good Luck
 
You mentioned only working on the older metal canisters... the control valve and how it works is still the same. It's just located in the canister body instead of in the bag door. Knock on wood I've never had a control valve problem.
 
I can see this thread started more than 9 years ago but it helped me get my 2100 going again when it started shutting off when attempting to attach the hose.
(ie, ran fine with hose off)
I just disconnected that one vacume hose to the switch as you suggested and wala!
Question for you:
1) Will the vacume bag full light still come on when it senses the bag needs to be replaced?
2) Will the vacume still shut off when the bag is full?
Thanks again for all your help
Richard
PS: The tube leading to the switch was completely clear
I did not check the other tubes
 
Shut-off

Disconnecting the hose bypass the automatic shut-off mechanism, meaning that the vacuum is no longer able to determine when the bag is full. Therefore, it will not activate the red light or shut down when the bag is full. I believe you may have to check to see if there are any blockages in the clear hoses (or potentiallly replace the clear dial mechanism) if you want to restore the original functionality.
 
If the hoses are clear open up the bag valve. The stem screws out. I guarantee the bottom seal is off and you can probably see little bits of plastic where it is broken. This seems to happen more often on the plastic models. Then to 1205 metal style canisters.

The valve will have to be replaced. They are about $38 on eBay.
 
I have a Diplomat LX, which is essentially the same machine, that I rescued from beside a dumpster in the spring of 2020. It had this same problem and I just disconnected one of the clear vacuum lines to get it running. I keep saying I'll get another valve for it, but I've had the thing for about three years, use it semi-regularly, and really haven't missed it.
 

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