I want to service my KIRBY dual 80's motor. There is play in the belt spindle and fan, and the motor squeals. What is the problem? I think it may be the front bearing. To get to the front bearing, I think I must remove the fan? I have all necessary screws removed from the fan casing, to open it, but the silicone from someone else's fan replacement is holding it together. I have tried prying the 2 pieces apart with a hammer, with no luck. How could I get the fan case apart? Any info/help/instructions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
D80 help...
- Thread starter kirbyduh
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eurekastar
Well-known member
If it squeals and there is play in fan, then the front bearing is bad. And I wonder if someone used some kind of adhesive instead of silicone. If it is some kind of adhesive, you might try finding a spot on which to rub very small amounts of acetone and just let it work its way down into the crack where the two castings are joined together. Then see if you can't pry it apart beginning at that point. However, someone with more experience may have a far better idea too!
scvacuumguy
Well-known member
Take a very, very sharp pointed flat-head screwdriver. Turn the whole unit upside down (in case you chip something). Hope to God you can tap the screwdriver into the crack between the fan casing without breaking or chipping it. You don't have to turn the machine upside down- but either way, find an inconspicuous spot to do the tapping, Lightly tap...don't brutally attack the screwdriver. As soon as you can wedge the screwdriver into the casing, turn it gently and then go all the way around to try and pry the casing apart.
eurekastar
Well-known member
Lane, a friend of mine suggests that once you've gotten the fan case off you might want to go ahead and replace the rear bearing and finger spring.......or at least “re-spring” the finger spring while it is torn down that far, clean all the dirt, dust and grime out of the motor housing and stator windings, and put an ohm meter on that armature and do a commutator continuity check as well as a check for short to ground. As for the stuck fan case, when looking at the machine from the front, there are two guide pins in the fan case. One is situated just above the safety/speed switch wiring pass-through and the other is situated just above the most outboard screw hole on the opposite side (the left side as you are looking at the fan case from the the front). It is best to focus on separating the case halves at these two points, since that’s where there is most likely to be the greatest amount of adhesion, and splitting the case halves elsewhere will likely result in bending or breaking these guide pins. So, as someone has already suggested, a sharp, flat blade instrument is needed, but I’ll caveat by limiting it to no more than 3/16” wide. Gently tap it into the case half union just above the safety/speed switch wiring pass-through, and give the instrument a 90 degree turn. Use a second instrument and gently tap it into the case half union just above the most outboard screw hole identified earlier, and give the instrument a 90 degree turn. The front case half should fall off easily. The remainder of the task should proceed as normal. Hope this helps.
eurekastar
Well-known member
All you need for that is something like an ice pick or a long thin punch pin. I'm not sure which tool you have. Kirby actually made two different types. One slips up between the fields of the armature. That tool is for later models. However, if you'll spin the armature slowly around while looking at the armature shaft up near the cooling fan, you'll see a hole that's drilled through the shaft. Simply slip the pick through that hole. Whatever you slip through there should put the armature in a bind so you can spin the fan off. Remember that those are left handed threads, so you'll spin the fan pulley to the right to loosen. Hope this helps!
eurekastar
Well-known member
Be sure to mark all the screws, wires, etc. so you know where they go. I always use small plastic bags and write the identifications of each group of screws on post-it notes. The next step is to remove to outside cover so you can get to the motor housing itself. The next step then is to pull the power switch cover off. It simply lifts out of place. Then remove the screws from the cover. It should just slide right off. Once you're at the motor housing itself, you'll want to remove the carbon brushes from their holders, making note of how they came out and from what side. The brushes are held in place with a clip that's attached to wiring. You'll first need to take the cap off that covers the clip. You may want to mark the wires so you know more easily which wire goes where. Once you've removed the clips, the brushes come right out. But remember again to note which brush goes where and how they came out if you plan to reuse them. I would recommend replacing them since you're already at that point, given that they may be rather worn because of the vacuum's age. Removing the brushes is the next step before removing the front bearing block. Try that much and let us know how it goes. Hope all this is making sense. Once you take the cover off, it should be easier to see what I'm talking about.
eurekastar
Well-known member
You're a smart man!
I had to learn the lesson of marking things the hard way! LOL! You're next step is to remove the screws from the bearing block. You should then be able to remove it and the armature. If it is stuck, take a screwdriver or a punch pin and insert it into the motor housing at place where you can then gently tap the bearing block from behind. It should then come right out. When you pull out the armature, you'll notice the finger spring inside the housing, along with the bearing washer. You'll probably want to replace the finger spring or at least "re-spring" it. Do you have a bearing puller? If not, you can order one from Bill (a007Kirbyman).
I had to learn the lesson of marking things the hard way! LOL! You're next step is to remove the screws from the bearing block. You should then be able to remove it and the armature. If it is stuck, take a screwdriver or a punch pin and insert it into the motor housing at place where you can then gently tap the bearing block from behind. It should then come right out. When you pull out the armature, you'll notice the finger spring inside the housing, along with the bearing washer. You'll probably want to replace the finger spring or at least "re-spring" it. Do you have a bearing puller? If not, you can order one from Bill (a007Kirbyman).
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