Cleaning a Hoover Windtunnel Self Propelled
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Check for blocked hoses and ducts
Ian,
The whole vacuum may not need to be totally disassembled and cleaned. If there was a filter installed underneath the bag, the fans and motor are probably fine. Check the hose for blockages. I had co-worker who thought her Windtunnel was dead because it shut off and would not power back on. Turns out, it was a very bad blockage in the hose and the terminal protector caused the motor to shut off to prevent damage. Also, check the Windtunnel ducts in the agitator cavity for blockages.
Hope this helps. I’ve never completely disassembled one of these. Let us know how it works out. Kenny
Ian,
The whole vacuum may not need to be totally disassembled and cleaned. If there was a filter installed underneath the bag, the fans and motor are probably fine. Check the hose for blockages. I had co-worker who thought her Windtunnel was dead because it shut off and would not power back on. Turns out, it was a very bad blockage in the hose and the terminal protector caused the motor to shut off to prevent damage. Also, check the Windtunnel ducts in the agitator cavity for blockages.
Hope this helps. I’ve never completely disassembled one of these. Let us know how it works out. Kenny
Repair video
Ian,
Here is a youtube video on Windtunnel repair. Just click on the link below.
Ian,
Here is a youtube video on Windtunnel repair. Just click on the link below.
mr_mom
Well-known member
it is a real big pain to take the hood off i took mine off to see if i can fix the brush roll selector but its broke and getting to the cord was a pain for me bc i have the bagless model
gmerkt
New member
These are pretty easy to work on. Just follow the Phillips head screws (or Torx on a late model so built).
It's pretty simple to check for a blockage in the area you've highlighted. Pull the main hose out of the side socket, and it you've got suction at the hose end, the blockage is in the duct in the floor nozzle. If you lack suction at the hose end, the blockage is in the hose. These bagged machines don't offer many other possibilities for blockage.
The duct/short hose in the floor nozzle comes out easily. Remove the single screw holding the lower wand retainer in position, and unscrew it. These are reverse threads. Then you can unscrew the duct/short hose from the fitting in the floor nozzle. Sometimes, a blockage can occur right in the duct fitting next to the brush roll. Something sticky that then attracts other debris and kind of glues itself in place.
One funny object that likes to get caught in the duct/short hose in the floor nozzle is the pull-ring from a plastic milk jug. These can get caught in the coils of the short hose and passing hair and other debris starts to collect. Before you can say Jack Robinson, it's completely blocked.
The hood comes off the floor nozzle pretty easily. Two of the four bottom plate screws hold it in place, then there are two screws up inside the floor nozzle frame that attach, and two tabs, one along each side, that you have to disengage. Once you have the short hose out of the hood hole, it goes pretty easily.
This is a machine that really isn't all that tricky with regard to repair procedures. Just be sure to look at everything, especially under the hood, to make sure you aren't missing a broken part that will cause you to take it all apart a second time. Like the actuator arm on the drive mechanisim. It helps to have this all clean for a really thorough inspection.
When you are reinstalling the floor nozzle hood, be sure to keep the brush roll control knob pushed all the way over to the carpet position. If the screw holes on the hood don't come right up tight to the polycarbonate forward nozzle frame, you don't have it lined up right. There is a tab on the underside of the hood near the carpet height selector that needs to be lined up with a corresponding tab on the p.c. forward nozzle frame for it to fit right. Even if you discover that this is wrong after the screws are reinstalled, you can push it back into place carefully with a flat screwdriver.
One bit of basic advice, be careful reinstalling screws in plastic holes. They won't take much torque and don't need it. If you're unsure, don't use a cordless, do it by hand.
I do this model all the time and it goes very quickly. If they are dirty/dusty beyond what compressed air will blow out, I completely disassemble and wash them out with high pressure water. I have ways of doing it that usually don't require the wiring nor the power switch to be removed. The parts air dry or dry before a wood stove, depending upon weather. I can completely disassemble, inspect, and reassemble one in about 25 minutes. Not counting time to hunt up this or that part. Cleaning/washing time can add 10 to 15 minutes, depending upon how nasty the brushroll is. The motor and drive mech. get blown out/off with comp. air. I clean and repack the b/r bearings which I've got down to a few minutes. Sometimes the cord is bad; that adds a few minutes to replace. I can knock one of these out in under an hour unless I encounter something unusual. Not counting drying time, which makes the process non-continuous. You go do something else while that process is occurring. Like watch a re-run of Gunsmoke or similar.
It's pretty simple to check for a blockage in the area you've highlighted. Pull the main hose out of the side socket, and it you've got suction at the hose end, the blockage is in the duct in the floor nozzle. If you lack suction at the hose end, the blockage is in the hose. These bagged machines don't offer many other possibilities for blockage.
The duct/short hose in the floor nozzle comes out easily. Remove the single screw holding the lower wand retainer in position, and unscrew it. These are reverse threads. Then you can unscrew the duct/short hose from the fitting in the floor nozzle. Sometimes, a blockage can occur right in the duct fitting next to the brush roll. Something sticky that then attracts other debris and kind of glues itself in place.
One funny object that likes to get caught in the duct/short hose in the floor nozzle is the pull-ring from a plastic milk jug. These can get caught in the coils of the short hose and passing hair and other debris starts to collect. Before you can say Jack Robinson, it's completely blocked.
The hood comes off the floor nozzle pretty easily. Two of the four bottom plate screws hold it in place, then there are two screws up inside the floor nozzle frame that attach, and two tabs, one along each side, that you have to disengage. Once you have the short hose out of the hood hole, it goes pretty easily.
This is a machine that really isn't all that tricky with regard to repair procedures. Just be sure to look at everything, especially under the hood, to make sure you aren't missing a broken part that will cause you to take it all apart a second time. Like the actuator arm on the drive mechanisim. It helps to have this all clean for a really thorough inspection.
When you are reinstalling the floor nozzle hood, be sure to keep the brush roll control knob pushed all the way over to the carpet position. If the screw holes on the hood don't come right up tight to the polycarbonate forward nozzle frame, you don't have it lined up right. There is a tab on the underside of the hood near the carpet height selector that needs to be lined up with a corresponding tab on the p.c. forward nozzle frame for it to fit right. Even if you discover that this is wrong after the screws are reinstalled, you can push it back into place carefully with a flat screwdriver.
One bit of basic advice, be careful reinstalling screws in plastic holes. They won't take much torque and don't need it. If you're unsure, don't use a cordless, do it by hand.
I do this model all the time and it goes very quickly. If they are dirty/dusty beyond what compressed air will blow out, I completely disassemble and wash them out with high pressure water. I have ways of doing it that usually don't require the wiring nor the power switch to be removed. The parts air dry or dry before a wood stove, depending upon weather. I can completely disassemble, inspect, and reassemble one in about 25 minutes. Not counting time to hunt up this or that part. Cleaning/washing time can add 10 to 15 minutes, depending upon how nasty the brushroll is. The motor and drive mech. get blown out/off with comp. air. I clean and repack the b/r bearings which I've got down to a few minutes. Sometimes the cord is bad; that adds a few minutes to replace. I can knock one of these out in under an hour unless I encounter something unusual. Not counting drying time, which makes the process non-continuous. You go do something else while that process is occurring. Like watch a re-run of Gunsmoke or similar.
I gave the vacuum a test run for the first time, and the self propel isn't working. The windtunnel's handle feels very loose as it moves up and down, in contrast to my Power Drive, which offers some resistance when I push it. Any idea as to what the problem is?
mr_mom
Well-known member
the wire might need to be tighten down at the arm or the arm might need to be replaced mine needs replaced it doesnt go fwd but goes back fine
suckolux
Well-known member
end came off the wire at the motor end, have seen that 3 times
suckolux
Well-known member
it was the cable on all of mine
suckolux
Well-known member
Sorry to say, my short term memory is not there, I had to have help watching me take it apart to advise on re assemble. I don't remember it at all.It was involved I know. Are your belts tight?
suckolux
Well-known member
a slipping belt will stop the powerdrive for sure.Though if you tilt it off the drive tractor where they wheels are up in the air and engage, they should roll then.
suckolux
Well-known member
It sure can't hurt!
dialanap
Active member
Video for actuator arm repair and other repairs
Here is a video that shows how to replace the actuator arm from a website I found. There is also a video on foot pedal replacement as well as belt replacement. Hope these help you.
Aaron
http://hooverrepair.blogspot.com/
Here is a video that shows how to replace the actuator arm from a website I found. There is also a video on foot pedal replacement as well as belt replacement. Hope these help you.
Aaron
http://hooverrepair.blogspot.com/
dialanap
Active member
I found one more video on Windtunnel actuator arm replacement on YouTube. Here is the link.
Aaron
Aaron
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