Building a Top Fill Central Vacuum out of old CV

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gregvacs28

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Sep 18, 2018
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Taking a 1990s rusty, Beam, bottom fill, "bagless", central vacuum with by-pass motor I found on Craigslist

And rebuilding it into a

Clean, freshly primed and painted, bagged, topfill, central vacuum with extra sound insulation, remote power, and a new 1500 watt flow-throw motor.

I sold the hose pictured and several other parts so I got the vacuum for nothing.

I already have the motor which I bought a couple of years ago.

It's interesting, Beam makes these awful bottom fill vacuums with the "self cleaning" filter that doesn't work well.

They also make some version of a usable top fill CV by simply taking the metal body of the bottom fill model, flipping it over and instead of using the bucket putting a flat top on the bag compartment. That's what I'm doing.

But there are details....

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After completely disassembling and removing the logo stickers and labels.

scrapping the rusty edge and priming (the red paint)

drilling the rivets out for the latches, drilling the welds for the end cover, and cutting a new vent hole for the motor compartment.

Doing some sanding and priming.

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Everything is completely sanded, washed, dried in the sun, sprayed with alcohol, rusty metal primed (red paint), then sprayed with gray primer.

At this point some parts have the first layer of paint applied.

There are still some blank plates needing to be installed, some holes needed treatment before final spray paint.

It will be completely white when done.

The paint on the outside and in the motor compartment was faded but ok. The paint inside the dust compartment however was bubbling in many areas and that needed heavy sanding with a wire brush.

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Beam vacuums

I had a beam unit, it was the first central vacuum unit I purchased. Compared to what else is out there, they are not very good. The unit was bagless and a mess to empty. Some beam units can be converted to use bags, I converted mine but I ended up giving it away to a coworker who wanted to install it in his house using pipes. I don't miss that unit at all, I'm not sure if the quality has improved since the company that makes the Duovac brand bought them from Electrolux but I have no interest in getting anything else from that brand at this point. And I recently saw a youtube video which only confirmed my thoughts about this brand.
Mike

 
oh!

I've seen a model like the one you've described. They seemingly took a standard beam canister flipped it upside down and slapped a cover on it. I remember seeing it and just laughing thinking, for a manufacturer, that's so lazy.

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Nice

That is a very cool conversion.
I don't know id worry much about paint coverage but would maybe use an enamel spray.
Keep us updated on the rest. This is really pretty cool too see.
Les
 
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Nooxy- </span>  I like Owen's videos.  Yes, that beam with it's "self clean" filter bag is the same lame scam that the one I'm fixing had.  That filter got ripped out with a pliers and went in the garbage.  The bypass motor this had still works.


What's good about the vacuum Owen showed in the video is the intense sound insulation around the motor.  The vacuum I'm fixing, like most CVs, had NONE.  


Yes the motor in that video is a small  flow through but it's powerful.  And they are inexpensive and easy to change.  If they only last 5 years, so what. pop it out, put in a new one and your good to go.  You can buy a motor like that for under $50.


With the one in the video they could've changed the motor, replumbed it so it uses disposible bags, and vented outside and it would have been good.


 


<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Blackheart- </span>  It's not that flipping the can is that big of deal.  They just repurposed the design.  The bottom fill design IMO, is not a good design but turning it into a top fill made something good from something that was otherwise junk.   


Central vacuum power units are not all that complicated.  They are just a can with a motor and a dirt collection area.


 


 


<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Les- </span>  It's mainly in the primed stage with only a bit of paint on it.  I will work on it more over the next couple of weeks.  
 
Preparing detail parts

All the cleaned parts that will be re-used, plus some new nuts and bolts, wire mesh to hold sound insulation in place, paint, the dirt compartment seal that's been cleaned (was really dirty with caked on rust), sheet metal panels that will be treated, primed, painted and fit to cover unneed holes, the cord, CV pipe fittings and bag holder, plus other stuff needed.


 


Not shown is the new motor and the lid which is on back order from Beam.

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testing the lid seal

The dirt compartment seal is kind of universal because it has a lip that should seal against the new lid.


 


I'm trying this out with the lid from another 11" Beam vacuum and it seems to work fine.  The new lid, as mentioned, is on back order.  Was actually ordered in mid March.


 


Extra holes will need to be covered, sealed, painted.


 


The holes that will be used will have a rubber grommet with caulk and CV tubing fitting through them to give a nice tight seal.


 


Picture of the new foam insert to protect the motor.

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Nice

If you sprayed the inside with spray foam , flex seal, or plasti dip. It would serve as a noise reducer and save the paint.
I still like the posts thanks.
Les
 
Covering holes not needed

Since I'm "remodeling" this vacuum it has some holes or openings I don't need
AND
I've needed to cut a new hole for the exhaust and remove the old motor guard and cut away some of the tapered metal on what was the top and will now be the bottom.

Since the exhaust is going to be completely sealed except for where it will connect to an exhaust pipe, all holes need to be coverd and sealed with caulk.

I'm covering over the old exhaust hole (it's too big), the old ventilation grill (not needed), the holes where the electronic control were mounted (not needed since I will be using an external control box), the old top that will now be the bottom needs to have the holes where the welds were drilled out filled and a plate of metal covering the old vent hole.

On the other end what was the utility valve is being eliminated and an exterior plate has been created with the edges folded back to eliminate sharp edges.
There are also 4 rivet holes that will need to be plugged.

On the exhaust end since the air will be pushing out all sheet metal plates will go on the inside to use the air pressure to the advantage. Similarly, on the suction side or bag compartment the metal plate is going on the outside because this area the air will be sucking in and it will use the pressure to the advantage to seal the hole.

The sheet metal pieces have been cut and gently formed to fit the curved body of the vacuum.

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Fitting the bag compartment

The old utility valve hole.
Even though the vacuum body is curved, the old hole is flat to accommodate the former utility valve. As a result the cover needs to be flat and have sunken corners that will bolt on.

The edges have been folded to eliminate sharps that would be a safety issue.

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off to be primed and painted.

Taking them outside in partial shade on a 90 degree day with a nice breeze. I'm also treating the original wall mount bracket.

First they are sprayed with rubbing alcohol, then primed, and then painted.

They don't have to be perfect, they will get a second coat of paint once they are installed and the entire vac. body is painted.

It goes quick when it's such a small area.

Now they will sit outside in a screen porch to thoroughly dry and off-gas for two days. At this stage they give off that spray paint smell and the best place for that is outside.

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Nice

I really like the restoration. It made something old better than new.
Thanks for the pics again. I'm a visual person and this thread can be seen through the pics.
Les
 
I haven't done anything with it for a couple of weeks.  Next I need to attached those plates and finish painting.  Then the fun parts.
 

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