Anybody Know About Lubricating Stuck Fans? It’s a Weird One.

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oldsuck

Active member
Joined
Jun 14, 2020
Messages
40
Location
Houston, Texas
I was hesitant to select the Small Appliance button to post this, but there was no button for gigantic belt-drive fans.
I just bought this 1950s Homart Cooler after years of searching for a good one. It came in the original box with parts, instruction manual, and even the original allen wrench for adjusting the pulleys or something. Had to have it.
I knew I should have oiled it before turning it on, but I’m an idiot.
It ran beautifully for about 30sec, then when I tried to stop and reverse it from intake to exhaust, it stopped turning altogether, in either direction.
I tried to give the blades a couple shoves to get it going, but it wouldn’t take off. I didn’t leave it on like this for more than a few seconds, but it still smelled like it was burning a little.
I’m not too concerned yet. It probably just got hot enough for a second to heat up 60yrs of old grease, oil, dust, and hair. I’m fairly confident that with proper lubrication, it will run like new.
My question is this- how important is it to take it apart and clean the old oil off the shaft & bearings first?
My first instinct is to do it, of course, but it ran so beautifully, before it didn’t. It had no shaking, wobbling, knocking, or ticking, which is incredibly lucky for one of these 60+yr old beasts.
I’m afraid if I break it all down & put it back together, something will be off-balance and I won’t be able to fix it, and it will wobble and tick.
Could I just flood it with WD40, spin it a bit, blow it out with a can of air, then lube it properly? Or something?
One other thing- Nobody seems to agree on if the shaft takes oil or grease.
I have the manual, and it seems to have come with a tube of proprietary Sears Roebuck "Dripless Lubricant".
That sounds like grease to me. Any thoughts?
Thank you for your time.
P.S. The two screws on the top of the shaft are where you add the lubricant. I heard the tube of Sears lube screwed right into the holes to squeeze it in.

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You most likely did not kill it with what you did. The burning smell is most likely from the friction in bearings, burning the ex-lube and dust and dirt.

If you need to use it NOW, as in an emergency (A/C down or such), then some WD40 to soften up the old ex-lube, and some new oil can be used just to get it going for temporary use. Very temporary. If you do this, it WILL get stuck again, as the dirt and dust will still be in there and the old stuff will not totally soften up.

If not an emergency, then it must be torn down completely (motor also) and all traces of old lube and embedded dirt must be removed, bearings soaked in solvent, and relubricated with proper lubes. I would not be able to say what to use until it is torn down as I cannot see the bearings.

Currently the liquid carrier in the old grease and oil has evaporated, leaving only the solids, which at this point is more like glue. Dust and dirt is in it as well and needs to be removed before it embeds into the pores of the bearings (if bronze sleeve type).

If this seems beyond your capabilities, then try to find someone who can do it for you. Either pay them or return the favor somehow.
If you lived in my area, I would take it on as I have done probably 100 fans in my life and saved many from the trash that were stuck like yours.

This thing looks really nice and is well worth the effort to do it right the first time. This would give it a few more DECADES of life. :o)
 
Thanks.
This is not what I wanted to hear. LOL
Yes, they’re the bronze bearings, too.
I’m sure I can take it apart, clean it, and put it back together, but will it still be smooth and balanced? Or is this a tricky procedure?
I’m a fairly respectable handyman, but this is new territory that I don’t want to screw up.
Thanks again fir your time!
 
I know you did not want to hear what I wrote, but this is what is best for the fan, as well as the owner who wishes to enjoy it.
Running it as is for long could easily damage it.

As long as you do not bend the blades, you should be fine. Mark where the pulley and blade hub go on the shaft if they are not keyed. Seriously doubt that mismatching their positions will cause an imbalance but better to err on the side of caution.
If the pulley is stuck on, you will need an appropriate puller to not damage it.

You will want to soak the bronze bearings in solvent to fully dissolve the ex-lube. Use brushes on them and soak again. Take note of any felt pieces that might be used to store extra oil. They might need replacing if they cannot be cleaned.
Also be sure to use the 3-in-1 electric motor oil in the blue container for final oiling.

Let me know if you need help or anything and hope you keep this post updated.
I am a fan of fans myself and love seeing these restored to their original condition. This one you have is very unique.
 
Thank you SO MUCH! Sounds like sound advice! I’ll do everything you said.
Pulley... puller. Check.
"Ex-lube" 😜 well put.
I imagine I’ll soak the bearings in a Gumout carburetor cleaner.
I wasn’t sure what kind of lubricant to use, so I already ordered a 100% synthetic oil called Liquid Bearings that’s supposed to be good at displacing vintage ex-lubes.
I do have a blue bottle of 3 in 1 though. I intended to use that on the motor.
I’ll definitely try to do this right and post my progress.

This is my 3rd Homart Cooler, by the way.
My 1st one was from a garage sale over 20yrs ago. I adored it. Everyone who gets one cherishes them.
They move 3000 cubic feet of air per minute and are literally quieter than a little desk fan.
Well it died in a basement flood. It was too hard to figure out how to fix something like that b4 the internet, so I ditched it.
I recently bought a 2nd one, but it appears to have been dropped. The screen doesn’t line up right and it has an irritating tick-tick-tick...
So I kept looking until this one popped up.
I’m hoping to restore it to like-new.
I’m going to try to match the original paint and just touch it up with my airbrush, then give it a good 2-stage clear coat.
 
If the bearings are sintered bronze bearings, I would not soak them in any solvent, as they will absorb it like a sponge. Although, if they are indeed sintered bronze, being NOS, they should still have good oil in them, and really should not have failed. Perhaps all they need is a little oil to get them started.

Ideally, identifying the bearing type should be first. It's unlikely they're ball bearings. So that leaves either plain bronze or sintered bronze. Plain will appear uniform in color and texture, sintered looks more like damascus. The other giveaway will be a plain bearing must have a hole through it to let oil onto the shaft. Sintered bearings will have no such hole, as they are porous and the oil is meant to flow through them.
 
Found the Original Lube

I found this when I pulled out the motor-
It’s from the 50s, but it’s been capped.
I wonder if I should use this, or 3-in-1, or "Liquid Bearing" synthetic oil.

Thoughts, anyone?

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I'd

Use the original you have pictured. Its own what the manufacturer suggests. I'd.say it's very ironic that you need to lube it and found the original.
I hope you get it working good it's in mint condition and it's from the 50s when it was great quality.
Les
 
Put a drop or two of that old stuff on a paper towel and check the viscosity. Compare with some oils you already have. If it seems very thick, or is discolored, do not use.

The motor should definitely get the 20W 3in1 blue can motor oil.
Post some pics of the shaft bearings when you get it all apart and we can suggest what to use there if the original stuff is no good. If it seems good, then use it and see how it goes.

I really like belt drive fans. Using a slower blade speed and deeper blade pitch, more air moves with less noise. Down side is more maintenance...
 
Yeah, Les, this thing continues to amaze me.
I fully expected to have to paint the inside at least, but I keep wiping off grease & gunk and finding pristine paint underneath. 😁
The shaft looks really good. There are rings worn into it, but you cannot feel them.
This Sears lubricant is a little dark and uh,... chewy. 😏
It required a pretty good squeeze to get any out.
This crap ain’t goin’ on MY bearings. We’re calling it an artifact for posterity.
Here’s the shaft housing. I certainly hope nobody’s going to suggest I try to bang these bearings out. I think this is the end of my comfort zone, as far as dismantling critical and irreplaceable mechanisms.
One bearing does have a couple squiggly streaks of wear, in case it’s not clear what’s going on in the photos.
I think my pictures lose a significant amount of detail when I upload them. 🤨
This fan will only see occasional use from now on, so I imagine it will be fine if I just clean it up with Gumout carburetor cleaner, slap it back together, & oil it.
The motor, on the other hand, seems to need a little more attention, which frightens me.
The last time I cracked open an old fan motor, parts went everywhere and some kind of important and fibrous washers crumbled to dust.

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Part of me wonders if the oil IN the bearings has turned into that goop. Dunno. Oil it up and see what happens. The streaks in the bearing might be from when it got stuck.
 
Interesting theory, MadMan. The damaged spots are bright like a new penny, suggesting they’re new, but I don’t understand what could have caused them. The shaft is as smooth as glass. It’s just weird.

Anyway, now I’m just waiting for delivery of oil, Gumout, and electronics cleaner for the buttons (they’re really stiff) from Amazon, so progress is paused.
But tune in next week for the continuing adventures of Homart. ⏳
 
Just curious

If you were to take hold of the motor shaft can you move it back and forth, Does there seem to be any play? This isn't in relation to what you've been talking about really,but something that I see with a lot of high mileage electric fan motors. I have a 60 yr. old Superlectric box fan and you can slide the shaft about 1/4 " back and forth. It doesn't seem to affect anything, you can hear a slight thump when you turn it on, as the thrust pushes it. Try checking yours for excessive play after you get it put back together and oiled. I'm hoping MadMan will comment on what if anything can be done. This is your third of these fans and I've never seen them before,quite unique! If you have a can of electronic contact cleaner w/lubricant that should help with the switches binding.I'd use that fan on the regular if you get it running smooth.
 
KirbyKlektor-

It does have a little play, but only about 1mm. So basically, not really. 😜
I’ve cleaned and restored a lot of vintage appliances, and I’ll tell ya, this fan really doesn’t look like it’s seen much action.
These buttons feel like they have old molasses in them though. I’d really like to open it up & clean it, but it’s riveted shut and I’m not thinking about drilling it at this point.
I ordered this spray for it, hoping it would flush out the gunk.
It doesn’t lubricate, but I can spray it with silicone lube after I clean it, right?

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Do not pound out the bearings - just clean them in place with lots of Q-tips dipped in lacquer thinner or other petrol based solvent. Keep scrubbing until no more discoloration occurs. You could even use paper towels wrapped on a screwdriver to start.
Clean the heck out of the shaft as well.
The clean spots in the bearings look to have been caused when you were pulling the shaft out. A raised spot at the end may have done it as you twisted it out. If there is a raised spot, file it some before reinserting.

I kinda expected that lube was gone - same concept of paint drying in factory sealed cans. KEEP it though as an artifact. Now you know why I call it 'ex-lube'! The lube in the bearings was even drier than that, which is why it stalled. Clean the heck out of them bearings! Carb cleaner should work if it is petrol based.

Motor certainly needs opening, but do so slowly and take pictures on where parts go. IF you need any fibre washers, let me know and I can send you some. I needed a few for my fans but I had to buy a kit of a thousand or so to get the sizes I needed, lol...

That contact cleaner might work for the switch but keep it off visible plastics, as it could discolor it despite being 'plastic safe'. If that don't work, get your drill out and do it right! :o) Bet there is more dried grease and dirt in it, too.

You are doing well at this project - I miss restoring fans but I have way too many now. I even had to sell some off...
 
The more I think about that lube, I think it might have been a light grease, kinda like lithium grease. The oils in the stuff gradually penetrate the pores in the bearings. I think yours might be too heavy now, lol.
I do agree - 'dripless' does sound like grease.
Poke around in there to see if there are any open channels that go from the screw hole along the bearings...

In relation, many old oscillating fans had no rear oil port as the gearbox grease kept the rear bearing lubed, at least until it turns to tar after 50-100+ years. I have seen little grease channels in some of castings.
 
Thoughts about the bearing score marks. First, they are probably minor enough not to be of any consequence. As long as there is no radial play, it's fine. I replaced my friend's attic fan today and I remembered something. The bearing was probably scratched when you pulled the shaft out through the bearing. It's likely the set screw mark or some other defect on the pulley side of the shaft is raised and gouged out the bearing when you pulled it out. Make sure to file down any imperfections that could gouge the bearing, before pulling out the shaft.

As for the oiling, just wipe off the inside of the bearing, coat it and the shaft with regular motor oil, and drip some in the oil holes, and hope for the best. You'd probably have to run the fan for several hours, if not days, before you would know for sure if it will be ok.

The harder option is to re-oil the bearings. But realistically, it would be easier simply to replace the bearing entirely, as you'd need to press it out of the holder anyway. And yes, a press would be ideal, though I suppose you could use a big vise to press the bearing out. A new bearing could be had at some hardware stores or on McMaster or Grainger.
 

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