Another Kirby 505 motor to start work on part 2

[vacmadman]

Well this 505 motor has been thoroughly cleaned and polished and is ready for reassembly. Unfortunately the light cap was cracked on both sides so I decided to remove the light cap trim that is in good condition. I do have a 505 light cap that I can replace it with that needs the trim....there's a first time for everything, but I love the challenge.

 

[kirbyclassiciii]

VacMadMan

Jim,

I am sorry to hear about the cracked light cap housing. I know you can source another from as late as the 515.

~Ben

 

[vacmadman]

505 or Kirby 2C?

I got this old 505 back together, and just for fun I put on a Kirby 2C nozzle with the belt cap, and just like that I have a pre-belt lifter 505....LOL!!

 

[kirbyklekter]

Can you tell me what it is I'm seeing in photo#2? It's just to the right of the air intake,metal with hole in middle, because I don't see it in the other photos. As always, nice job! Billy

P.S. FWIW I like these toggle switches more than the "mushy" ones that replaced them. The plastic knob is missing on many I've rescued, eh, just me.

 

[vacmadman]

Bill, I think your talking about the safety switch, and thanks!!

 

[kirbyklekter]

Nag nag nag...

Jim,

When you have a minute can you tell me about that safety switch and how it works? I don't even know how long this design was used. I'm guessing that when the nozzle is clamped on, contact is made with the switch (?) and the circuit is complete, but what do I know? Thanks, Bill

 

[lesinutah]

Safety switch

The model 1c had a safety switch. It's been around atleast since model c.
The switch makes it so the vacuum won't turn on unless nozzle or hose is in place.
The 500 series 2 wires +,- from light, 2 +, - coil, ground power from carbon brushes.
The all connect to the switch.
The wiring is ran on the outside of the vacuum from the switch underneath to the safety switch.
If you went to the switch and didn't hook up safety switch wires it would turn on when you power on the vacuum.

 

[kirbyklekter]

Thanks Les, it just looks so different than the other Kirby's that came later.

 

[quebecois]

Fantastic look ! DId you do all this polishing by hand or did you use a felt wheel or a cotton wheel and a buffer?

 

[lesinutah]

Yes

The switches starting at 516 run the wiring in the motor housing and have a plastic safety switch. The tab on the 505 is plastic but it has 4 or 5 pieces it consists of.
I just inherited a drill just like he uses to polish with. I'll let him answer.

 

[kirbyclassiciii]

VacMadMan

Jim,

Here is an in-person view of the wiring diagram for models 505-515, and I believe the same applied to models 3C and 4C.

~Ben

 

[vacmadman]

François

I use a Chicago electric variable speed close quarter hand drill. I start by wet sanding with 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper, depending on the level of oxidation, or damage to the aluminum. I then work my way up to 3000 grit before I start polishing with a cotton polishing wheel.

There are a number of different sizes and types you can use. I polish using Mother's mag polish, then I'll finish by hand polishing with Flitz corrosion protection polish. This will protect the finish for up to 6 months.

If you need to remove bad or deep scratches you may want to start with 600 grit then work your way up to 3000 grit 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000,...polish.

Jim

 

[kirbyclassiciii]

LesinUtah

Les,

Actually, the safety switch first became a feature late in production of the Scott & Fetzer Sanitation System, about 1932. These later models will have the new feature prominently displayed on the front of the bag.

~Ben

 

[rugsucker]

"-metal with hole in middle-"

Great information on the safety switch but this seems to be the light bulb socket.
Beautiful rebuild!Looks wonderful as does the yellow table!