Air-Way question

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After a good cleaning of the internal parts, I got it back together and switched it on.

I noticed lots of arcing for the very first seconds, then it calmed down to what you can see on the second picture. So I guess everything's fine in there, isn't it?

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The first time I saw an Air-Way upright was in the mid-1970s. Someone had left a straight-suction model at the curb across the street. I was tremendously fascinated, of course, and brought it home. Mama was afraid it had cooties in it or would catch on fire or cause an electrical short so she forbid me from bringing it in the house or running it. I had to play with it in the basement.


 


The first canister-type Air-Way I recall seeing was in the mid-1960s. It was a Sanitozer Model 77 that a neighbor lady had. She used it horizontally on the floor rather than standing upright. I thought it was very strange looking with its four runners.
 
Francois

The Carbon Brushes need to be re-seated to the commutator, which is a simple and easy thing to do. But, you'll need a piece of carbon brush seating stone. A local vac shop should be able to sell you a small piece which is all you'll need. With the machine running, hold the seating stone against the commutator close to the leading edge of one of the brushes. Press against the commutator for a few seconds, all the sparking should now be a very minimal of just a small line of blue sparks right at the leading edge, with no 'fire' ringing the commutator. Because I own a vacuum shop, we use these seating stones all the time when working on machines where we have to take a motor apart, like a Rainbow or an Electrolux or Kirby.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. Any purchase like this will have to wait till the end of a crucial phase of the pandemic here, as it is a non-essential product. Our government want us to stay home except to go to work and to the grocery and post office, more or less.
 
Madman, yes that's what I think too.

Before I put it all together, I'd like to improve the look of the machine. First, I'd like to polish the aluminium housing. Should I use a smooth buffing wheel with buffing paste? the green one or the rouge ? Will a dremmel be useful for hard to access sections?

Also, I'd paint the handle with flat black and the visible part of the inside of the housing, under the flow indicator, with aluminium paint or simply grey.

Any recommendations ?
 
Personally, I'd leave the inside of the housing alone. If you paint it, it will look funny, and the paint will flake off or just become dirty.

Never used the green polishing compound, so I don't know. I use stitched cotton buffing wheels, with black then red then white rouge/compound. Then a loose cotton wheel with Mother's mag polish (you could do it by hand). Then some kind of wax.

You could shortcut it by just using the red rouge, then polish.
 
Well, I should have put a picture with my last post.

The indicator housing has rusted inside and it shows through the window, really not cute...I think about a good sanding and painting it with rust resistant paint but I'm open to suggestions.

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I think it would look just fine painted and would stand up well if done right with good paint. Be careful sanding the window may become too lose. I wet sand the outside of the housing starting with 1500 grit or 2000 grit depending on the level of oxidation and damage. Then work up to 3000 grit before polishing with mother's mag polish.
 
I think about aluminium enamel airspray can paint, or Tremclad or Rust-o-leum paint.

I would just removed what is already flaking before I paint. Thank you for the tip, i'll be carefull not removing too much , i don't want the metal spring that holds the cover to become too loose.
 
I think about aluminium enamel airspray can paint, or Tremclad or Rust-o-leum paint.

I would just removed what is already flaking before I paint. Thank you for the tip, i'll be carefull not removing too much , i don't want the metal spring that holds the cover to become too loose.
 

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