A major difference between US Mod 63 and the UK 638...

[seamusuk]

Hey Guys

I was wondering if someone with a 63 could take and post a few pics of the height adjuster mechanism- the 638 only has a latch that you slide under the sprung rear wheels to get the "high" setting- see the pic of the base of mine below- its next to the switch mechanism ....

Cheers
Seamus

 

[marukap]

More than you wanted to know!

Here's my 63. Models 29, 62, 63, 64 and 634 are mechanically virtually identical. They have through-the-casting, toe-adjusted height range selectors. On the "Normal" setting the nozzle height is allowed to float through its entire range from lowest to highest. In the "High" setting, it is limited to a medium-to-high range.

 

[marukap]

More Pics

Close up of toe control

 

[marukap]

Workings of toe control

 

[marukap]

Undercarriage

 

[marukap]

Fan cover removed. I like the UK fan cover much more than the US version. The front section on the US version is riveted on except for those two visible screws . . WHY????!

 

[marukap]

Showing off! Visible from the top down:

305, 26, 27, 29, 60, 61, 62, 63

 

[marukap]

61 Details

Note handle release pedal.

 

[marukap]

61 Details

Note height range lever. It is like the UK 63.

 

[marukap]

60 Details

Note Absence of foot-controlled handle release.

 

[marukap]

60 Details

Handle release on handle! The one and only model with this feature.

 

[marukap]

60 Details

Note absence of height range selector. Like the model 27, the 60 was promoted as having fully automatic height adjustment. Obviously they found that it wasn't quite automatic enough without the range selectors installed on the 28 and the 61 and up.

 

[marukap]

I'm a crazy person!

Just about finished restoring a passle of 63s I've collected over the years. The only task remaining is a few hours in front of the television darning holes in the bags. The machine in the first few pics is my baby - the finishes are all original. The other three are refinished and color-matched. I don't quite know what I'll do with them yet!

I think I saw a thread about restoring hoods the other day. I've found that the ONLY way to remove deep gouges or even moderate scratches is to sand them away with an oscillating sander (like a Black and Decker Mouse). Start with fine grit and proceed to very fine grit. Then follow up with high speed buffing. This can be very tricky. Too much pressure or too firm a wheel or too coarse a compound and you will melt a hole in the hood. Too little and nothing will come of your efforts.

Another option is to sand as smooth as possible and then top coat with a clear coat enamel.

Lettering can be refreshed with a fine point brush and enamel paint.

Before you dive into this project, remember that it can take hours of tedious, dusty and dirty work and tragic mistakes can happen. But, this photo is proof that a good outcome is possible. Some of these hoods had very deep gouges. Sorry, no before pics.

 

[arh1953]

I like your 63s! I think that was was Elliot Gould was vacuuming with on "Law And Order".

 

[vacbear58]

What a WONDERFUL selection

Martin
I am amazed at the pictures you have shown here, I am quite jealous! And I thought Seamus' 638 was good. It appears that the arrangement on the US 61 height control was rather like our 638 - I am going to have to dig mine out and have a closer look.
Can you please explain how the handle release on the 60 worked? Jack Copp has always waxed lyrical (justifably) about the technical innovations of the earlier Hoovers, although I suspect that this perhaps might have been a step too far as it did not apparently last too long.
Another question if I may please. Can you tell us more about the machine denoted in your text as the 305 as I understood that to have a single pivot rather than fork handles - its the one which looks like a 150.
Finally any chane of some more pictures of the 26 please - we had them in abundance here as the 262, but I cannot recall seeing a picture of the 26 before
Many thanks
Al

 

[seamusuk]

Fantastic!

Hey Marty

Thanks SO much for doing that- it shows another couple of ways UK machines were the same in some respects but also very different in others from their US relatives.

I really cant figure out the US baseplate setup- it seems really odd and must make changing the belt more difficult than it needs to be.

On the subject of belts what do you use on yours?. You can still get the correct ones over here, indeed up until a year or so ago Hoover still produced them as genuine(HOOVER stamped in the belt etc). Although they still list "Genuine" ones the last couple of packs ive brought have been pattern/bojack ones in a Hoover pack . I know according to Hoover you can fit a Convertible belt to these(and the 91 type machines)but I would think that would be FAR to tight and possibly cause bearing failure- maybe a Sanitaire/Eureka belt would be a good subsitute?.

Anyhow im going on now- thanks again

Seamus

 

[seamusuk]

Forgot to say....

Id agree with Al- your all original example appears to be MINT!- its original owner obviously took VERY good care of it(as you do to obviously lol).

The thread with the hood pics on is mine- I do actually own a Mouse but will have to think before taking the plunge lol- mind you what ive done so far has helped considerably tho .

Cheers again

 

[marukap]

I'll show more pics of the 305, 26 et al as soon as I have a chance.

Yes, for now at least we can still get 044783AG Hoover belts for pre-convertibles and 91 series machines. They are available from supply houses like AVAC.

As an alternative I would think a slightly used and stretched Convertible 049258 belt would be an OK substitution.

I've tried Eureka round belts and find them to be waay to loose and begin to slip almost immediately.

http://www.avacorp.com

 

[marukap]

Hoover 60 Handle Release

Here's the schematic drawing from the 1958 Hoover service manual of the handle assembly for the Hoover 60. The handle mounted handle release and the rectangular profile handle were unique to the 60. The handle release lever works perfectly well. It consists of a small lever by the switch that actuates a simply designed metal bar or rod that disengages the release latch at the base of the handle socket. When disengaged the end of the bar is flush with the face of the electrical socket at the base of the handle. When actuated, it extends approximately 1/4" beyond the socket.