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Any chance you could take a close-up of that light bulb?

About that LED light bulb... I'm considering one of these light bulbs for my model 719. Which specific one did you buy, and how has it been so far?

I have had several GENUINE HOOVER 49258 belts break in my Convertibles. I do recall some members recommending the Light Weight Commercial belt, but they generally don't get good reviews. Any suggestions?

@lesinutah: Does that manufacturer make that bulb in warm white? I saw the 3000K warm white option (v.s. 6000K daylight), but I am not sure if the electrical specs are any different.

@lesinutah: That's what's nice about old Hoovers, they are very easy to learn on and they are built so tough that they can survive several screw-up jobs! I definitely heard some members say that they had bad luck with certain versions of the LED bulb in Convertibles. There seem to be lots of...

Success!! Here is what I did: 1) Took motor apart, vacuumed it out and wiped it clean 2) Cleaned, dried, and re-lubricated top bearing w/ 3-in-1 blue 3) Put commutator in drill; used fine garnet sandpaper to refinish bearing shaft and armature 4) Took strip of same sandpaper, wrapped around...

Listen to the motor of this Convertible in the video. Notice the sort of raspy sound it has. My machine sounds somewhat like this, but worse.

Attached please find a link to the thread to which this is a follow-up. In it I describe the original problem I had with the unit that, upon recommendation of other members, prompted me to replace the brushes. https://www.vacuumland.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?31349_58

@madman: I did already try your method; it helped slightly, but the Hoover brushes come stock with ridges, far from that smooth, curved edge characteristic of well-seated brushes. My machine definitely needs a new top bearing so I think I will try vacman1961's method. @lesinutah: In the thread...

So far, I have just polished the commutator itself, per Lesinutah's method, but with sand paper (400 grit emery). The motor has new carbon brushes. Currently it does not run well; lots of sparks, runs slow, and sounds raspy. Another user suggested using a stone to seat the brushes, but that it...

This is a follow-up from an earlier thread. Has anyone had success using a brush seating stone on a Hoover Convertible motor?

It looks like the wiring is somehow attached to one of the carbon brush housings, but I figured a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

The convertibles of this vintage that featured a headlight had a 25-watt push-and-twist bulb. Not sure of voltage. The motors were definitely all the same on the old models (65, 33, 584, 1020, 719, 593, etc.), just not all had headlights.

Hi all, If I were to swap the original motor on a 60s model Convertible that has a headlight with a donor motor that is not wired for the light, what is the process of wiring the headlight?

I am shopping for a carpet steam cleaner/extractor and have been primarily interested in the Rug Doctor Deep Carpet Cleaner model 93146 and the Bissell ProHeat 2X Revolution Pet Pro model 1986. From the many reviews I have read, most people seem to rave about the Rug Doctor's overall cleaning...

Thanks! I've seen the newer Electrolux Epic polishers that seem very similar to the old B8 and B9 models. Are those good too?

I am curious as to what would be a good vintage machine for scrubbing tile floors. What would you recommend?

You've come to the right place! Vintage vacuum cleaners often have bearings that can be lubricated. Motor bearings usually need grease. Some, like the top bearing of a Hoover, need to be oiled. You can expect to find ball bearings in the brushrolls of vintage vacuum cleaners that will need...

I have seen pictures of new armatures on eBay and they all come with the bearing and cup installed on the shaft so I was mainly curious. I have seen a video of someone removing the fan on one of these motors and they did as you suggested but I still cannot get the nut off even when holding the fan.

I have a Sanitaire SC887B with the older style 7 amp motor. I cannot seem to remove the top motor bearing and the cup on which it sits. Also, what is the best method of locking up the armature to remove the fan nut? Even with an impact driver, the nut seems to be on so tight that the armature...