According to your readings, then, the thermal switch is not the problem. You reflowed the joint I pointed out, I assume you tested the unit on a motor and it still does not work. So there's only the thyristor left. There's really no sense in disturbing the thermal switch then.
1.8 is a bit high, but you're reading that across dead shorts, so that's just your meter. Consider that number to mean continuity on your meter, then.
Order a handful of those thyristors, that's got to be your problem. There's only two parts on the board that could fail. I suppose there's a tiny possibility that the thermal switch is connecting enough to please the meter, but not enough to flow current. The only real way to test that is to run some real current through it. Say, a motor or incandescent light bulb on 120v. Still, the odds are good on the thyristor being the issue. For the price, buy some thyristors and gamble the $10.
My offer still stands to do it for you, if you don't feel up to it, but it seems like you've got it.
