Kirby cleaning

[kirby27]

I have my new Kirby that I got. As always the metal over time gets tarnished. But this Kirby I severely oxidized. I had tried mother’s which is what I always use on my other ones but that didn’t do a thing.
I would really like to restore this thing. So if anyone could tell me what would get this stuff off?
Thanks

 

[huskyvacs]

People here have said use Flitz, they claim that the Kirby Co. uses it too. Mothers can stain the plastic and rubber trim. Keep in mind if you are doing this by hand, it will take several hours of buffing and you will need to do it multiple times before you start seeing a result if it's really bad. Polishing metal is an art in and of itself.

 

[jpsbgt]

For the last several weeks I have been “polishing “ one of the two Kirby Sanitronic 50’s I have. One is in pieces the other is basically in overall good condition thanks to some replacement parts and help from fellow Vacland members. Back to polishing, it’s a chore and time consuming and did I mention dirty too. I suggest reading up on technique of polishing aluminum before you start. I have used a foam sanding block to remove the top layer of corrosion successfully, be careful with using anything coarse, fine 00 steel wool works good to. Marguires is very good but I’ve heard Flitz is too. Plan on longer to achieve what you’re thinking. Photo is the hood after numerous times sanding before any polishing, it was almost black front corrosion and dirt. I did not remove the Kirby emblem for fear of breaking it.

 

[electrolux137]

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The Kirby company doesn't use Flitz; they have massive and powerful buffing machines. Boy-oh-boy wouldn't I love to have one of those! I do have a good bench grinder with thick 10" buffing pads but even that setup is sometimes no match for severely tarnished and discolored aluminum housings.

 

[human]

I have a Kriby G5 that came to me a couple of years ago looking like it was made out of lead instead of aluminum. I got rid of the oxidation with Barkeeper's Friend, which left kind of a matte/satin finish. I then followed that up with Mother's, which brought the shine up a notch or two. I did it all by hand and I am reasonably pleased with the results (click my avatar photo to see it with my two Gsixes shortly after I'd finished polishing it), even though it doesn't hold a candle to my newly acquired Sentria. I've got a buffing wheel for my bench grinder but I haven't been able to install it because my late father's antique toy collection is in the way. I've got to sell some of that stuff so I can get to my workbench. One day at a time, I guess...

 

[lesinutah]

Hey

Kirby uses 14 inch buffing wheels. I may be mistaken but pretty sure I've seen a pic of 2 14 inch buffers. If I find I'll post. Steel wool 000 grit is what I used on 510 it's my profile Pic. It was sitting outside in old barn at least 20 years. I cleaned it used steel wool and that just got top layer. I had to steel wool and buff forever. But it can be done.
Les

 

[madman]

Use sandpaper. I wouldn't use anything less than 220 grit. Well... unless it's so pitted that you have to seriously reshape it. What grit your start with depends on how bad it is. If it's really bad, start with 220, then 500, then 1000. Then buff it with a buffing wheel and red/brown rouge/Tripoli. THEN use Mother's or whatever.

On my 1938 Cadillac vac, it was completely dull gray, like lead. I didn't sand it at all, just started with the buffing wheel, then Mother's. Turned out excellent.

Go to Harbor freight, buy a 7 inch polisher, the aluminum polishing kit, then go to the bench grinder isle, they have cotton buffing wheels there. Get one or two spiral stitched ones, for the rouge, and one loose one, for Mother's. They don't exactly fit the 7 inch polisher, you'll need some kind of ring-shaped spacer to correct that (I used a big rubber grommet), and a 5/8 nut from the hardware store to hold it on.